The path to Sasayama

While preparing my bicycle this morning I ran into my roommate, tough Spanish guy. It turns out his name is David and he is on the way of a very epic journey, crossing many countries like New Zealand, Japan and Thailand. We had a wakeup coffee at the Starbucks before parting ways. Good luck David!

Fully loaded

David also started out with tent and camp gear but decided early on to send it back home as he would hop from youth hostel to youth hostel. It seems we both reached the same conclusion. I'm still holding on to my camping gear though. The weather will get better, dammit, because I say so. (That said, today was fairly cold and had light rain at times...) Also, I've discarded some more luggage and managed to put my bright blue bicycle carrying bag inside one of the side bags. I'm losing weight :D

According to Google maps I had about 60 kilometers to travel today, but somehow when I reached my destination it turned out to be 80. I didn't make a lot of detours today, but I did get lost in Kameoka, a city to the west of Kyoto. I had to climb a nasty mountain pass to get there, then coasted all the way to the city not really paying attention. Then I suddenly realized I had probably gotten too far and tried to backtrack in a creative way, accidentally climbing another nasty hill. That ended up nowhere, and when I asked for directions it turns out I wasn't too far yet at all, and I had to continue a bit further on the previous road. Oh well.

My destination today was a place called Sasayama. A single road, road 372, would take me there without any detours. Or without much of anything else either, as it turned out. R372 is absolutely one of the purest roads I have ever cycled in Japan. And by pure I don't mean nature, although there's plenty of nature things to see too (rivers, mountains, GRASS). It was pure because it was classic Japan the way it's supposed to be. A road slaloming between hills, occasionally passing by a small village hidden between the mountains, sometimes climbing a bit and passing through a pine forest or bamboo forest, and then going down again to the next hidden village. There is absolutely nothing to spoil the experience: no foreigners, almost no traffic, no vending machines, no convenience stores and no restaurants. Small villages don't need restaurants or convenience stores, they have a tiny grocery store and nothing else. There's no traffic because nobody goes there, and I barely saw anybody even walking outside. No idea where all the people went, but it was a very peaceful ride. Well, until I got hungry, that is. The only restaurants that I found on the way were closed, so I had lunch at the only conbini on R372, next to a giant huge tree. Not bad.

Here's some pictures of the road. The photos themselves are nothing special, and I will be the first to admit that from a photographic standpoint they suck. But imagine cycling in this area and you will realize how awesome this road is.

It was a bit cloudy today
And a bit hilly
And a bit foresty
A wide road, no traffic, and nice scenery. Perfect.
The only convenience store on the way

I keep on climbing hills that are way too steep for my comfort zone. I start to climb them optimistically in a high gear and then change gears lower and lower until either I reach the top of the hill or run out of steam. I'm trying as much as possible to keep my front gear in the highest gear at all times, partly because it's a nice challenge, and partly because it's near impossible to switch back to a higher gear after lowering it. It even got worse after the last bike repair guy 'improved' it. There's just no fixing the gears on this bike...

I'm getting stronger though. I still run out of steam fairly quickly, but when I started my trip that meant that I had to stop at the roadside and wait for my heart rate to go down again to an acceptable level. Right now I'm running out of steam while still in middle gear at the front, and instead of stopping to catch my breath I cycle up the hill slower and can still catch my breath. It's a great feeling to be able to do something that would be impossible for me just one month ago, and this motivates me to try even harder.

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Dr House

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Last day in Kyoto

Kyoto station

I kind of forgot to stop by the station until today. I somehow managed to avoid it completely, thanks to there not being many road signs that point to the station. This morning I woke up, bought breakfast at the conbini and ate it the riverside, which is an incredible place to hang out. There's always something to see or to do. Joggers, families playing, salarymen jumping the rocks in the river to get to their job 1 minute quicker than by taking the bridge, the nice old-fashioned houses being renovated by a construction crew, young people practicing their instruments, and a lot more. No matter what time of day there's always something to do. It's become my favorite area for the past two and a half days.

After finishing my breakfast I randomcycled to the station, noting suddenly just how many foreigners there are in Kyoto. I cycled along some big streets and found more foreigners, changed my route to include smaller streets and roads half-hidden between buildings, and I still saw a lot of foreigners. No matter where I went, there seemed no end to the stream of foreigners approaching me. Most foreigners who have lived in Japan for a longer period of time may recognize this phenomenon, but us 'native foreigners' tend to dislike seeing other foreigners in Japan. The foreign presence bummed me out for a bit and I didn't do much for the rest of the day except relax and surf the net.

Nearing the end of the day I planned to replace my brake blocks, as scheduled. Things did of course not turn out to be as easy as that, as somehow the new brake blocks I mounted at the rear somehow didn't fit properly. Seeing as the old ones were really worn out I went to a bicycle shop to have it fixed. Result: a new wire to the rear brakes: 1800 yen. Guh. And it's still not perfect because the wire hits the fender when I brake, possibly bending the fender and breaking it. We'll see how that goes. This bikeshopguy also pointed out to me that my bicycle really sucks, and every important part needs replacing, starting with the wheels. He said that the way my wheel connects to the tire is really bad, and may cause a puncture real soon. If it was up to him he'd replace the gears, wheels, tires and everything else, but I said no thanks, and I'll see how for I get in my current state. At least the brakes are fixed and fresh again.

Hanging out at the riverside

During the day I very much got the feeling that staying 2 days (3 nights) is nearing my limit, and I really want to continue cycling. Very much like the anime Kino no Tabi, stay at a place three days and then move on. Despite this feeling of wanting to move on I'm really feeling comfortable right now, here at the youth hostel. After two days of cycling around Kyoto I think I'm starting to understand the city, and I'm figuring out which things are where and how they're connected, and somehow it's starting to make sense.

The youth hostel's been the best so far, and staying for three days gave me a good chance to get to know people a bit better, and for them ask me more things other than the "So you're cycling, does your butt hurt?" standard conversation. I talked about crime in Japan with two middle-aged ladies today, discussed touring by bicycle with my roommate, who happens to be a tough Spanish guy who is also cycling Japan by bicycle after having come from New Zealand, and made conversation with the youth hostel ladies in the evening. Thanks to this I got a nice pointer to this website called CouchSurfing, which is (to me) surprisingly popular in Japan. I'll have to try that out some time.

Tomorrow I'm off towards the west to a place called Sasayama to meet a friend who kindly offered to let me stay at his place for a night. It looks like it'll be a mountainous road, but it's in the right direction and for a good cause, so it's worth it. After that I have yet to decide whether to take the 'normal' path along the southern coast towards Himeji, Okayama and Hiroshima, or to go crazy and crossover into Shikoku, cycle the hell out of Shikoku and catch a ferry towards the middle of Kyushu, cutting at least two days off of my trip. If I do that I'll have to skip Hiroshima and the Dutch theme park near Nagasaki, which were two of my destinations for this trip. The upside is that I'll be in the countryside taking less busy roads and there's more chance of adventure. I'm 90% sure that I'll take the road to Hiroshima, but I might be in a crazy mood and end up doing Shikoku instead. We'll see.

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The fallen obasan

After reaching the youth hostel I walked around the back to check my bicycle. It was already quite dark my then and the narrow road  towards the back area is even darker. Suddenly I saw a (very) old lady sitting in the middle of the road. She told me she was unable to move after she had fallen, apparently she hit a parked bicycle which fell over or something. She had a very strong accent and I had trouble understanding her, so I asked someone from the hostel for help. The old lady said she just needed some help getting up and then she would walk to her own house, which was just around the corner, but even the slightest movement made her cry with pain. Finally a friend of hers arrived and convinced her that it was better to call an ambulance. I hope that she's okay, but I'm guessing she might have broken her leg. How exactly she managed to hit a bicycle that was parked against the side of a building and then fall over and hit something so hard to break a bone is a mystery to me though. Get well soon, obaasan.

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This is Kyoto

Speaking of not being able to lie in the grass, 10 minutes after starting to cycle this morning I found grass. And plenty of it, all along the riverside. It's still not the 'real' grass, cause it's not nearly thick enough, but still. It's close.

Look, it's grass! Kyoto is so green.

I started off my day by zigzagging my way to the other side of Kyoto. I ended up near Kinkakuji, the golden pavillion. It was still quite early in the morning, so I figured I might as well take a look. It's not golden week yet, and it was early, so I was hoping to find the place quite empty. I could not have been more wrong. There were at least six tour busses full of annoying school children, screaming and running all over the place. The very young children were just playing and running around, but the middle school children just stood there looking annoyed, following their teacher around, taking photos whenever the teacher tells them they should. Must be pretty boring for them. As a big scary foreigner I am mostly ignored by all the boys (except for the occasional scary look or rapid step-out-of -the-way when I approach). The girls start screaming and yelling 'HARRO!!! HARRO!!!'. Yay, I'm back to being a stereotype again.

Every tourist takes this picture. Meh.

Getting the hell out of kinkakuji I asked a random person where I could find my real goal: Arashiyama. There's supposedly a mountain just outside of Kyoto which offers a great view of the city, and also has a monkey park. In other words: monkey mountain! It turns out I had to cycle 30 minutes to get there, but the route was amazing. Beautiful nature, great landscapes and wonderful buildings along the way. I'd say that the road between the golden pavillion and Arashiyama is a must-see if you're tired of temple-tripping in the inner city. Really great.

Peace and quiet on the way to the stormy mountain.

I did take a wrong turn in the end and climbed the wrong mountain, which went remarkably easy without luggage (which I had left at the hostel). When I asked for directions a guy told me I could either go back down the mountain and around it, or climb a little further and go over it. I went on climbing, but it turns out the guy failed to mention that the only way to go down at the other end of the mountain was by taking the stairs... Well, stubborn as I am I carried my bicycle about 50 steps down. Ha!

Wonderflonium
Another NICE BOAT

This area was again amazing. A river surrounded by forest and mountains appeared in view. I took a lot of photos in this area which I must share some day. I cycled along the riverside for a while until I could go no further, and then went back to find the monkey park. Well, the monkey mountain was just awesome. I'll show some photos instead of ranting on.

Monkey get close

This guy was busy taking a picture of a monkey far away when this other monkey just walked up to him and sat down next to him.

LOTS of monkeys! - getting fed.
They beg for food like this
..and they eat a lot on days like today.
Hand-fed
The family together
Monkey play
Monkey scratches balls

After the monkey park I zigzagged my way back to the river near the youth hostel, and stayed there for a while until the sun set. A very relaxing day, I must say.

I will process this later, I promise.

Some thoughts about Kyoto:

  • There are a LOT of foreigners. Big scary foreigners that make loud noises all the time.
  • There are a LOT of (Japanese) tourists. Tiny loud school children that talk in annoying accents all the time.
  • Kyoto's city center is surprisingly ugly. You really have to go out of your way to find an interesting neighborhood to random around in, otherwise it looks just like any other Japanese city.
  • Despite that, I really really like Kyoto. I said before that I liked Wakayama, but I admire Kyoto. It's different somehow.

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Kyoto in the rain

I walked around Gion district in the rain today. Despite the rain it was a very nice experience. The area just feels so nice and old. I've been to Kyoto before but didn't wander around this area at all, which is a real shame. So much nice atmosphere here.

A bridge in the Gion district
Lots of shops and bars nearby
Nice street.
City center as seen from the east
Even the bridges look nice

The public bath is always a place to strike up a conversation. Today I talked to an old man who was traveling around Japan. It's amazing how many old Japanese people you meet in youth hostels. Yesterday at the youth hostel there was only me and one old man. Today there's me and two old men. They're multiplying. Anyway, this old man told me he was 61 and retired. He still had a job but he only has to work 3-4 days per month, to earn what he refers to as his 'allowance'. The funny thing is, this man had his business in Hiratsuka, the place near the seaside that I always used to cycle to. It seems like quite a coincidence to meet someone so close to where I'm from. Quite a coincidence indeed, because the old man I met yesterday lived near Ebina, another place close to Atsugi.

Tomorrow's weather will be nice!

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Yup

I'm in Kyoto. It's smaller than I expected. I tried to take a scenic route but ended up 3 kilometers from Kyoto station, which was pretty much far-out already. I started out this morning in full rain-wear, but took it off again after one hour because it was barely raining and I was soaking wet from my own sweat that couldn't find any way out. That's the second time that has happened by the way. It was nearly dry all the way, but when I arrived in Kyoto it started raining more heavily. Despite the rain I enjoyed myself and wandered around the streets by bicycle a bit. When I went to the hostel to check in I was again too early, but they let me leave my luggage at the entrance. My luggage takes up an entire corridor, it's horrible. I'll try to decrease my luggage even more. There's still some clothes, tech and tools that I can leave behind or send back home.

I also took the opportunity to visit a bicycle shop to get my gears checked. A professional guy spent about 20 minutes tuning and twisting every wire and nut and bolt on the gear assembly, and after the tuning it felt pretty much the same as before. He told me I'd have no trouble at all cycling to Kyushu with these parts, and he didn't recommend replacing them, using the phrase "相性がわるい", meaning that the parts might not work well together, and that replacing only some of the parts could only make things worse. I'm actually fine with that, as lately I haven't been having problems at all. The bike's gotten used to me, I guess. A bigger problem is the brakes: the guy told me that they should immediately be replaced as they are in extremely poor condition. When I told him I'd been cycling the past 300km's with the brakes in this condition he just stared at me and said "anyway, replace your brakes". I guess I should.

Today I'm going to wander around the area near the hostel a bit. Tomorrow I'll have a nice chance to wander around Kyoto by bicycle. The weather should be perfect too. After that I'll have one more day to get rid of some luggage, fix my brakes, and prepare for the second half of the journey. I'm halfway done!

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Japan sucks

Whoops, the adventure feeling is completely gone today. If I had to use one word to describe today it would be MEH.

I'm in Nara-ken now. Nara prefecture looks almost exactly like Kanagawa. Today's road was extremely flat with only one slightly hilly section. I cycled 80 kilometers today, but because I started early I was already at my destination at 14:30. Not a lot of cycling and not a lot of hills meant that I still had a lot of energy left. Unfortunately for me the area I arrived at was pretty much like Atsugi: just a typical Japanese city with nothing special anywhere in sight. The weather got cloudy too so I was very much bored and not feeling the adventure at all. Right now I'm at the youth hostel, which turned out to be a typical Japanese house next to a railway line. Every 10 minutes a train goes past and the sound of a bell disturbs the neighborhood. I'll be glad to skip this area and get to Kyoto. This is just too normal.

After being in Japan for a while now, I've observed that there are not many outdoor places that are very accommodating to people. For example, today I walked along a road at the riverside, but the entire side of the road was blocked off with barriers making it impossible to get close to the river. There is no possible place to just sit down and relax! Even if you improvise it's still impossible. If there were no barriers, or if the space between road and riverbed was only 10-20cm's wider, then it would be possible, but no. In the entire country of Japan there will be no such thing. There will be no loitering around at random areas. Japanese people go from home to work and back again, and if they want to loiter around they will go to a dedicated loitering place and spend their time in a concrete park instead, even if they have to go 5 kilometers out of their way to find one. This just plain sucks. In Holland, no matter where you are, there will be benches or grassy areas to sit on. I used to forgive Japan for not having these kind of places because Japan is overcrowded and Japan has no space, but that's simply not true. It has plenty of space to put a couple of benches alongside some roads, it's just simply not the 'Japanese way' to do that. It's for the same reason that there are no trash cans in this entire country: you dump your trash at your building's garbage collection place, or at a convenience store along the way. If neither is possible, Japanese people will carry their trash with them for the whole day. Unless they dump it at the riverside, which is why so many of Japan's natural scenes are spoiled by huge amounts of garbage. You suck, Japan.

I very much dislike these points about Japan. Japan is great if you can accept the Japanese lifestyle and don't try to change it. Things are the way they are, and you'd better accept them, or else you'll only get annoyed. If you can accept them, or if you are never confronted with the bad parts, then Japan is a great country. In every other case I can imagine that people won't like it very much. It reminds me of Apple: there's only one way to do things and it's convenient maybe 90% of the time. The other 10% you're screwed and you wish you were somewhere else. But, like Apple, sometimes there is just not a good enough alternative.

I like Japan because people don't bother me. Every0ne minds their own business and leaves you alone. I like Japan (well, the Tokyo area) because of the convenience. There's train stations everywhere, convenience stores, beautiful sights, anything within 1-2 hours travel. I like Tokyo because it's so huge and there's always something new to discover, and I never have to worry about getting lost because there will always be a train station nearby. I like Yokohama because it's beautiful and peaceful and just gives me a good feeling to walk around in. I like Atsugi because it's both near the countryside and near the big cities, and the area around it is great for cycling and exploring.

Lately I'm not looking forward any more to meeting new people on this trip. Especially the Japanese people's reaction is always the same. First I tell them that I'm from Holland and I work in Japan, then they ask me what's Holland and do they speak English there. Then I laugh and tell them that they speak Dutch, which is a little bit like German. Then they ask about my job and my trip and why my Japanese is so good. After that they run out of things to say and end the conversation with "Ganbatte kudasai": well, do your best. The most interesting conversations I've had on this trip have been with foreigners who have been in similar situations as me, living in Japan for a while and then having to decide whether to stay here forever or go home. I was hoping to meet more of those people at youth hostels, but today there's only one old Japanese guy from Yokohama and he's not very talkative. I have more interesting conversations online than in real life..

Tomorrow I'll reach Kyoto. If I start cycling early I'll have two and a half days there, and I should be out of there just before the golden week madness begins. I'll probably get my bicycle's gears fixed when I get there, although they've been remarkably fine recently. I really wonder if they can be any better than this, because even when I first bought the bicycle the gears were a bit wonky. I've finally gotten used to their current state, so I wonder if fixing them will make things better or worse. Oh well. Kyoto, here I come.

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Not bad

The weather is good, the roads are flat, and I'm almost at my destination already! The youth hostel I booked is about 25km's further ahead, so it shouldn't take me that long to reach it. Right now I'm at a cafe on the top of a hill having lunch. A 32-year old good-looking waitress was so impressed with my Japanese that she proposed to me. Yeah, things are going alright.

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