Nostalgia

Here I am again, wandering around Atsugi at night by bicycle. Everything still feels incredibly nostalgic. Sitting by the riverside it is only second nature to me to think that afterwards I will cycle back to the youth heim, knock on some people's doors and have a roof party together. Or that I'll stop by Kimisawa to buy some discount food before closing time and walk up those five flights of stairs to my room carrying the grocery bags. Or that I'll head to Hon-Atsugi station to meet some friends for yakiniku. And then I remember that I'm staying at a hotel and I've left this place two years ago.

These feelings are exactly like childhood memories. Even if the place still exists, you can never recreate the same feelings again. In all reality, most of the people I used to have good times with here were gone long before I left. When I left this place I knew that staying here would have meant career death for me. I could have moved to a different place in Japan; most likely Tokyo, to get a new job. But no place would have been the same as those childhood memories I created here, be it inside or outside Japan. I guess in the end, I regret leaving Atsugi. But I would have regretted staying even more.

There is no conflict in my mind. I am not glorifying a potential future in Japan just because I grew up here. I've had good times here and bad times, and the future will be a whole different thing altogether. I am not blinded by the past.

Posted in Japan , Thoughts

Hiratsuka

Many years I cycled here. For exercise, for weekend relaxation, out of boredom, in frustration. Of all the places I've been in Japan this one ended up being one of the most memorable.

Posted in Cycling , Japan , Photography | Tagged

Gaman culture

The Japanese word 'gaman' (pronounced gah'mahn) roughly means 'to put up with something', to endure, to persevere. When people are standing in an over-crowded train at 30C tightly packed together like sardines without complaining, they are putting up with it. When someone works at the same company for three years even though his salary is shit, he is forced to work an additional 30 hours overtime each week and he hates his manager, he is putting up with it. When someone is opening a business bank account at a certain British bank even though the banker is treating him poorly and not making him look forward to having the account, he is putting up with it.

The last example, obviously based on myself, reflects how I changed in regard to this since I came to London, because I did not put up with it, and I have no plan of putting up with it in the future. Having been 'raised' in society by the Japanese (all my real interactions with society after uni happened in Japan) I always used to put up with a lot of things. I was never bothered by this because I saw other people in Japan doing the same thing and I just mimicked their behaviour. I also never had to put myself in any situation where I had to really put up with something. In all fairness it was smooth sailing all the way, right up until I left Japan.

When moving to the UK I was pretty much the same, thinking if I put up with things they'll eventually go away or cease to bother me. Then, as I started working in London, having to deal with moving, taxes, bank accounts, estate agents, my patience kept getting shorter and shorter. I ceased to be able to put up with things any more. In some ways, this is a good thing. It means I'll now cut the bullshit banker talk and walk out when I see no good outcome. It also means I'll have more trouble finding a new apartment because my criteria just went through the roof. This, by the way, has to do with my previous post about letting your guard down. You can try and put up with something assuming things will get better or it won't be as bad as it seems. Sometimes you'll get lucky and you'll deal with sincere people who will not take advantage of you and take you at face value. But sometimes (most of the time?)  things are exactly as bad as they seem and you'd better cover your ass before you start doing anything. But that's another story.

The gaman mindset is one of refusing to acknowledge anything you don't like. You refuse to even think the thought of 'not liking' something, instead you'll just think to yourself "I'll put up with it" and focus on something else instead. Personally I think there's only a very few cases where this could be the correct solution, with most of life's serious problems requiring a more pro-active approach, but I do admire the mindset. Because I've seen people practising this and, if done properly, you truly do cleanse your mind of the bad thing that was bothering you just a minute before. It's a form of mastery over your own mind that is commendable. And, as Japan proves, if all of society practices it, the end result is (paradoxically?) not bad.

As I final thought, I can't help but be reminded by the prisoner's dilemma again. The prisoner's dilemma has been on my mind a lot lately and somehow I keep finding real-life situations where it's applicable. This is another one: if everyone gamans then nobody suffers a disadvantage, but as soon as one person starts complaining (to himself) about something and ceases to put up with things, he will end up striving for a better position compared to the gaman people. Going for individual gain rather than societal gain, perhaps? If everyone plays the non-gaman strategy (UK) or the gaman strategy (JP) then society is stable, but a mix of strategies will result in a disadvantage for some.

Posted in Japan , Thoughts , UK

Just perfect

This morning I got up early and went out for a cycle towards the seaside. I was all ready for it, in full cycling mode about 15 minutes in when I felt the first raindrops. Dark clouds were approaching and it only got worse and worse, so I returned to the hotel in sad defeat. I spent most of the day indoors but finally around 5 o'clock it cleared up again, and I decided to venture out again. To the mountains this time.

And behold my luck: the weather was great. It cooled down quite nicely after the rain, and sunlight peeked through the thin layer of remaining clouds. Climbing up the hills on my little pony bicycle turned out to be less of a challenge than I'd feared, and soon I found myself going down my usual road. The gradual uphill culminates into a beautiful downhill slope that opens up into a valley in-between several mountains, and it always brings a big smile on my face to go down that road.

As I cycled along after the downhill I spotted a girl wearing a yukata. Then, a while later, another one. Soon I found the reason: there's a festival! My Japanese summer experience wouldn't be complete if I didn't at least randomly encounter a festival :D. So I went and took some photos, enjoyed the atmosphere and then cycled homewards along the riverside. What a great day.

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Posted in Cycling , Japan

Loosely collected thoughts

In Star Trek: Generations there exists a wonderful place whose online definitions are all terrible. Here's the least terrible of them all:

[The nexus is] a nonlinear temporal continuum in which reality appears to reshape itself in fulfillment of a person's innermost wishes, accessed by way of an energy ribbon that crosses the galaxy every 39 years.

The few who have been to the nexus and returned describe it as a euphoric experience, like "being wrapped in joy."

My friend Alvaro was the one who put the thought in my head that going back to Japan was like going back to the nexus: it's a place out of time where all the normal rules don't seem to apply. A place where you don't have to worry and everything magically turns out all right. It's a thought that I, before coming back here, could totally agree with. Then, after having been here for a couple of days it just felt.. alien, and not nexus-like at all. It's only now, after a couple more days, that I feel my thoughts have stabilized. In my opinion, Japan can be the nexus, if you leave your baggage at the door and let it envelop you. (And even then, it won't last very long).

Leaving your baggage at the door, that's the tricky part. I've noticed that over the past two years I've become increasingly corrupted by my experiences in Europe. Simply put, I've realized how badly people can treat you in Europe. It's something that puts you on guard, and after a while you won't be able to lower your defences any more and just relax. I've been like that ever since I arrived here.

This feeling of unrest manifests itself in many ways. For me it means that I can't allow myself to accept that I'm on holiday, knowing that I have taxes, work and a horrible estate agent to deal with. Probably another example is that I have trouble just sitting down somewhere without worrying that someone will steal my stuff or try to take advantage of me in some kind of way. You could call this a trauma, in that it is something that happens subconsciously. You need to expend conscious effort to circumvent it. Being on guard has become so second-nature for me that it's actually more difficult not to be on guard.

And circumvent it you should, when in Japan. People here are like NPCs: they don't interact with you unless spoken to, they'll never steal your stuff and they'll never pose a threat. This means you can go hiking and leave your backpack on a table while you go round the corner to buy a drink. It also means you can get shitdrunk and fall asleep between the doors of a moving train and someone will gladly pull you out and order you a taxi.

Coming from a place where you have to be on guard in public, getting to a peaceful state again is difficult. It might be more difficult for me than average considering my introvertiness and fondness to be alone at times. On-guard-places tend to affect me more than others, it seems, since I know plenty of people who enjoy the 'grittiness' of places such as London and New York. All I want is to be left alone and to have a park with a nice view where I can cycle to safely late at night when nobody else is around.

Continuing with that theme: perhaps that's really the only thing I am looking for in terms of a place I can call home. Let's define it here:

I can call a place home if I have a nice quiet place within 10 minutes cycling distance from my house where I can comfortably go to any time of day or night without having to worry about getting spoken to, interacted with or robbed.
I admit, this definition has been formed by my experiences in Japan, so it's heavily biased, but perhaps not by country. I've realized that I keep saying the word Japan, but I actually mean Atsugi, that very specific little city that is caught between the mountainy countryside and Tokyo. I don't think Tokyo would fit my above criteria, in particular the 'nice quiet place' bit, which Tokyo wouldn't have, or the 'comfortably go' bit, since there'd be tons of traffic lights and people, even late at night. Atsugi has just the right amount of people: busy enough to be anonymous, yet quiet enough to not run in to people all the time. There's tons of places that will fit my criteria, probably even in Europe. It's clear to me that I shouldn't focus on big cities any more; I'm bound to end up disliking them.

There is one more criteria that I'd forgotten about until today. It's a very silly thing to be mindful of and I hesitate writing it down here, but I will do so anyway for posterity's sake: I like to live in a place that makes me feel special. Given my mono-national background and upbringing as a Dutch country boy from the most remote farmland province of Holland, I feel a sense of accomplishment and wonder at my having lived in Japan. It's not something I ever thought I could do when I grew up, and every once in a while during my stay in Japan I remembered where I came from and how far I'd gotten, and it made me happy. It's not exactly "the further away, the better", or "the stranger, the better", but I guess they both help.

As I get older I get more picky. I go places that I like and will look for similar places in the future. I go to places that I dislike and make sure that I don't end up in such an unlikeable place again. I don't think this is a good thing. Liking one thing means disliking the opposite. I used to try and take a neutral stance towards everything but somehow I ended up passing judgement on a lot of things. I hope I can change my life in the future to be less bothered by all the things I disapprove of today. I would like to end up being happy with whatever comes my way, even if that means throwing away all the subconscious and conscious criteria I currently hold in my mind. But there is one thing I will always keep in mind, and that is the one I described above: a peaceful place to cycle to. That's all I need.

Coming back to the nexus: Japan isn't it. It's just a country. I happened to live here two years ago and I enjoy reliving my old memories by visiting the places I used to visit, but that will account for just 5 minutes of every day that I'm here. After that, it's just a convenient country filled with nice people. I can't pretend to be awestruck by it all the time. Japan has become normal to me, and it took me two years of living in London to realize it. I remember the past with fondness, in particular how I did not have a single worry in my head, except perhaps for getting a girlfriend. I've moved on since, and there's a different class of problems and experiences to deal with now. The place I used to live stayed the same, but I changed. So I guess the old saying holds true for me. You can never go home again. I guess it's time to build a new home somewhere.

Posted in Japan , Thoughts

Death by mountain

After today I am totally ready to admit that I may have had an idealized image of Japan. In my mind the adventure of climbing OoYama, the big mountain, was a moderately difficult hike with tons of beautiful sights along the way and never any bad weather. I guess I picked a bad time to revisit the mountain because today was just.. painful.

I woke up quite early and managed to get to the starting point of the hike well before 9AM, which is when the cable car service starts. Not to worry, since I had plenty of time I didn't mind hiking up all the way from the start. Or so I thought. Japan's summer weather here is around 30 degrees with crazy humidity levels. It seems my brain has conveniently forgotten that my natural state in this kind of weather is liquid. Sweat, sweat, sweat I did. I feared the climb because my physical condition had gotten a lot worse since I left Japan, but it was still quite doable. It seems I'm still in better shape than I was when I climbed the mountain for the first time when I couldn't even make it to the top.

Soon I reached the halfway point, and right after that it started to become cloudy. Visibility decreased and the hiking experience turned into something most similar to walking around in a damp bathroom after a shower. There were some interesting mosquitoes which, although I did not catch them doing it, bit off substantial portions of my skin and left large crusty areas of blood where they bit me. Since I was sweating so much the sunscreen just dripped down my face right after I put it on.

Despite all that I did surprisingly good time. I didn't hang around at the peak because it was too foggy and damp so this was probably the fastest run I've ever done on Ooyama. The walk down was speedy, but when I finally stood still to wait for the train I found that my leg muscles were twitching. Energy level: zero.

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Somehow I quite like these painful moments. I think it has something to do with my memory, which is exceptionally poor. When I feel strong emotions or physical pain/exhaustion/whatever, I remember things more easily. Maybe that's why I tend to like the extreme moments; I simply can't remember the less extreme ones.

Posted in Japan , Travel

A classic cycling trip!

One of the main things I wanted to do here was get a bicycle and cycle to all the spots I used to go to. My initial plan was to buy a touring bicycle from Tokyo somewhere and bring it back with me to the UK, but as I soon found out there's not a lot of demand for those, and getting one I like would take weeks, not days. So I switched to plan B: buy the crappiest cheapest bicycle I can find.

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..and I'm so happy with it! Yes, compared to a proper (touring or other) bicycle it's not good at all, but compared to walking this thing is masterful. After I bought it I couldn't resist and headed for the mountains, reaching one of my favourite spots just before sunset and then realizing that the light didn't work. But not to worry! Now that I have a bicycle I can do a quick trip to the 100 yen shop and buy crappy-ass lights for my crappy-ass bike! On the way back I enjoyed the downhill thrill for the first time in over a year. What a great feeling that is.

Today I decided to cycle to the seaside. But today the temperature rose to over 32 degrees. Two years ago I might have been ok with that, but today I just couldn't stop sweating. I realized that my physical condition has decreased a lot since two years ago, and I gained a lot of weight. It's time to do something about that, and now is as good a time as any. Although next week temperatures might rise to 36C..

The trip didn't end well. When I arrived at the beach the wind had gotten so strong that there was massive sand spray, clinging to my limbs which had sticky sunscreen applied to them. It took only a couple of minutes for me to turn into a sand monster, so I decided to cut my trip short and go back, in traditional zig-zag fashion. All the streets seemed unusually quiet, but then again it's the obon period right now, meaning all Japanese go back to their home towns to visit their family. It was a good ride back, albeit too hot for me. I took solace in the fact that while I am here my stamina will only go up and my weight will only go down, so future cycle trips will only get easier.

Also, today is my birthday! As before, I have continued to fail at dying. This is good. Thanks everyone for your messages. Hope to see you all in the near future :)

 

Posted in Cycling , Japan

The more things stay the same..

One of my favourite emotions is nostalgia. I love to reminisce about the past and draw out the feelings I used to feel. Two years ago during my last days in Atsugi, the place I lived for 5 years, I did exactly that. I was leaving on a cycling trip, and while waiting for the right moment to depart I revisited all those things I knew I would miss. Then after the cycling trip, when I decided I would leave Japan, I returned to Atsugi again, feeling triumphant, yet different. I knew I had another chance to see all those things I liked (loved) about Japan, but somehow it felt different sleeping in a hotel bed instead of my own cozy little studio apartment. I dismissed it as a situational thing, and the years after I left I've been idolizing Japan in my head, looking forward to my eventual return (as a tourist). That time is now.

When the plane approached Japan I got my first rush of excitement. Seeing in birds-eye-view all those places that I used to know was just amazing. As I got out of the airport I got my first healthy dose of friendly Japanese people and realized that my language skills did not yet completely atrophy. Then I got on the bus to Atsugi, that very same bus that I took 7 years ago as a naive stranger who did not know what was going on around him, and then it really hit me. All the memories, smells, sounds, emotions, surged back to my brain and I didn't know whether to laugh or cry. In the end I settled on grinning like an idiot which must have scared the shit out of the other people in the bus.

Arriving in Atsugi I headed to my hotel, which is the same one I ended my cycling trip in, and it suddenly felt different again. I remembered how I felt right before I left, a stranger in someone else's town, and I haven't been able to shake that feeling since. It's like someone is constantly drilling a message in my head saying "You're just a guest now. Maybe you used to live here two years ago but now you've moved on. What are you even doing here?". I don't know have an answer to that (yet).

I'm amazed at how much my perspective changed after two years of London. While in London I've constantly compared it to Japan, saying that Japan is better in this, better in that etc. (annoying the hell out of my UK friends and girlfriend). Now that I'm back here I've had a great chance to do a double-check. I'd say that my findings are the same but I would like to rewrite the conclusion. If I had to make the comparison again I'd say that Japan is "not that much better". (This is of course an extremely personal opinion related to the current situation I am in right now and will not apply to anyone else unless said someone happens to be in exactly the same situation as me). I guess it's the advantage of not having anything to compare it with when I first came here, allowing my mind to base it's default state upon Japan and then using that as a base. I'm slowly unbasing myself. Or perhaps I should say rebasing since I will return to London after this trip to try and get something more permanent going. I guess the old saying holds true: you can never go home again.

This is Japan. It's the easy-mode country. You can travel anywhere and do anything you like without having to worry that something bad will happen to you. (*if you're familiar with the language, which helps a great deal in how people treat you). I've travelled by myself here a lot already so I feel comfortable going anywhere, which I guess is what I will do. I've got mixed feelings about staying in Atsugi. I still have tons of memories to revisit and old friends to have a drink with, but at the same time I've never before felt like such an outsider. I don't belong here right now, and I won't pretend that I do. Instead, once my business here is finished, I'll travel around. I'm not sure where yet, but I'm sure I can concoct something nice. It won't be as adventurous as my last trip here but I'll definitely find some new places.

I haven't quite found the peace yet. It's time I bought a bicycle.

Posted in Japan , Thoughts

Now it is the beginning of a fantastic journey!

Summer is going to be awesome. I'm going to meet up with old friends in New York for two weeks, and right after that I will be travelling to Japan for a month. Since not using an apartment in London for almost two months is a criminally expensive affair I decided to take this chance to rid myself of my burdens and my horrible estate agent, and just cancel everything. Well, except my girlfriend. And my job. It's weird to have those two things and yet still be mobile enough to travel for two months. Thank you girlfriend, thank you bosses.

That said, I am actually going to be working while on holiday, a decision that met with some controversy with people I know. Is it really difficult to enjoy a holiday while still working from time to time? I'm not sure what I'd do in Japan by myself for one month if I didn't also have work. Besides, something has to pay for the trip, I might as well earn my pay as I go along. For the first time since last year, when I loudly proclaimed that I'll be a suitcase traveller, working here and there while travelling, I actually am one.

Expect to hear more of this soon. It's been a while since I had anything to say here, I've been bogged down with work so much that I've hardly had time to think about other things. But the quiet period is over now. Many things need doing.

Posted in Japan , Travel

寂しい

Posted in Japan