The love hotel

As I mentioned before, all of my current cycling trip was pre-booked in advance, except one night. It's the only time I'm staying in a big-ish city, so I assumed that there would be loads of hotels available to choose from. But it was also a Saturday night and by the time I started booking my trip everything was sold out. I kept checking back on and Google maps but nothing became available, until a few days ago. One hotel, just added to, had some rooms available. It actually had rooms available before, but at insane prices. Now prices were reasonable. Still way higher than regular business hotels, but reasonable. The only catch: it's a love hotel.

I pondered a lot about whether or not I should reserve it. On the one hand I felt it wasn't in the spirit of my cycling trip to pre-book any accommodation that was above the bare-minimum business hotel level of service. The only available cheap business hotel was 30 miles away though. I considered booking that and going there by train and then back again to my parked bicycle in the morning, but that definitely wouldn't have been in the spirit of the cycling trip. In the end my fear of the rain and the cold won out, so I booked the love hotel.

I actually considered just winging it and maybe sitting at the steps of the train station looking like a poor lost foreigner wanting help and waiting for a good samaritan to show up and offer me to stay at their place. Given the kindness of Japanese people I actually suspect this would have worked, but that's also kind of the reason I didn't want to do it, since I'd be taking advantage of their kindness. I'm not a lost foreigner any more; I have the technological, linguistic and financial means to book a hotel on the fly no matter where I am. So, better to save that kindness for someone who really needs it. The other reason I ended up pre-booking is that I was still worried that it would rain. Not having an overnight plan sucks a lot more if you're drenched with rain and icy cold.

My only previous experience with a love hotel was indirectly via a story told by a (non-Japanese) friend, who actually got thrown out of a love hotel because he couldn't figure out how it worked and couldn't communicate what he wanted. I quite dreaded that this would happen to me. After almost 90 kilometers of cycling and some unintended extra exercise (more on that later) I really needed some uninterrupted sleep. So when I showed up at the reception desk I was mildly anxious. Fortunately the man at the reception was quite helpful and quickly helped me get set up. He even fixed the wifi for me, although it broke again soon after he left. But hey, I managed to get into my room and was left alone, so I was happy.

Except for the fact that the door wouldn't stop talking and wouldn't let me out. There's a little something I could have known had I investigated a bit first: once you're in the room, you have to pay to get out. Since I had booked the hotel on and was expecting to pay by card I was reluctant to use the machine at the door, since I kind of suspected that any overpayment on my part would end up not getting refunded. So I stayed in my room, which wasn't too bad, since the hotel provided a free welcome beverage (alcoholic or non-alcoholic) and a dinner menu to order from, delivered to the room. The door finally shut up as well so all was good.

The room itself was fairly decent. It was a bit as if a karaoke room and a regular hotel room had sex and squirted dildos and condoms everywhere. It was soundproof, had a PS2, karaoke machine, dildo vending machine and even the mini-fridge was vending-machine-style. You have to pay for everything. The view was excellent. You can tell the owners wanted to go for the premium kind of feel to make it feel nicer than a business hotel, but they went about in a really sleazy way so the end result somehow felt worse than a business hotel. If I wanted to impress a girl I'd never ever take her to a love hotel, unless my goal was to show her how messed up Japan is.

There were two major issues with the room, both of which I had to leave unsolved. The first was that the bloody lights didn't turn off. I looked all throughout the room, pressed every switch I could find, but the lights would not turn off. I guess that must have been on purpose. The other thing that annoyed me hugely was that the heating was set way too high and there was no way to turn it down. Again, I suspect that was on purpose. Helps to get people to take their clothes off, I guess. After dinner I was just so tired that none of these things even bothered me, and I fell asleep just like that, with the lights on in a room that was way too hot.

I was sound asleep in my bed when the door machine started talking to me again at 23:30. I didn't wake up fast enough to hear what it actually said but I was worried that it had unlocked the door. The last thing I want is for some horny couple to show up expecting the room to be available. I stayed awake in my now insanely hot room for a few minutes to see if anything would happen, but everything seemed fine. I assume the owner reserved the room for the whole night since I booked online. I solved my overheating problem the only way I could think of: I opened the balcony door just wide enough to get a pleasant temperature. The heating didn't seem to care anyway and was full open all the time. Still couldn't get the lights to turn off, though..

All in all it was a really strange experience. Japan is absolutely fantastic in being convenient. Everything you can imagine is convenient, and the way of thinking of making things convenient is embedded in everything they do. You could clearly tell that the love hotel was made with the concept of convenience in mind, yet somehow it executed that concept incredibly poorly. I really don't know how much of that is on purpose because of the cultural concept of what a love hotel is, or how much of it is just because of lack of thinking things through. I also don't know which of those options is worse. This is a country that has a 'play soothing sound' button on toilet seats so that other people don't hear you take a shit, so anything's possible really.

I could have done a late start on the following day and even could have gotten a free breakfast at the hotel, but I just felt like leaving early and getting on with the trip. Love hotels are definitely not for me. It'll do in an emergency, but it's pretty low on my list of places I would stay at.

Right, back to travelling. I'm still going through my backlog so I've got some fun blogposts coming up. Stay tuned.

Posted in Cycling , Japan

Tips for touring cycling in Japan

The very first touring trip I did in Japan was in 2007, and I've done many more since then. Over the years I've gathered a whole bunch of data as well as personal experiences that I thought would be useful to put into a blogpost. Hopefully someone will find this useful. I tried to categorize things a bit, so here goes.

The language

First, to get the obvious thing out of the way, I speak Japanese and can read enough of it to be useful for a cycling trip. I think this is a huge help for me, but I have no evidence of the contrary because I don't know anyone who's cycling in Japan without knowing the language. Japanese people are extremely helpful and friendly and will do anything they can to help you find a camp site or point you in the right direction. I can't even count the number of times random people have come up to me and given me food or drinks. They're great people. That said, I don't doubt that being able to speak Japanese will reduce the barrier to conversation and make it easier for people to connect with you. Quite frequently people ask me where I came from and where I'm going, how much kilometers I'm doing in a day, etc. I can imagine such a conversation is more difficult to start if it's in English, since a lot of Japanese people are still shy about their level of English. I'd recommend learning at least a few words and phrases for basic conversation. Words like 'camp site', where', 'left', 'right' are hugely useful. Still though, in this day and age, if you have offline maps and a bunch of placemarks on your phone then you can easily get away with not knowing any Japanese. I'd still recommend learning at least a bit of it though. Trips are more fun if you can talk to the locals.

Trip planning

First tip about trip planning: don't :) . That is, don't plan your every day schedule way in advance. I usually plan the starting point and destination and roughly the route/area I want to go through, but I don't make detailed plans until one or two days before the actual cycle. That gives me the freedom to change course or even go somewhere completely different, or linger in a place that I like a bit longer. Touring is absolutely more fun this way.

Japan allows this kind of trip style because 1) hotels and camp sites are readily available wherever you are and rarely full, and 2) there's always the option of sending your bicycle via Kuroneko delivery service to the airport (or anywhere) if you end up running out of time. Kuronekos are everywhere, and while your bike is in transit you can catch the Shinkansen back. One thing I will definitely advise against is to bag your bike and carry it with you in trains. I'm not even sure if the Shinkansen allows it, and besides, a touring bike is heavy, and so is your luggage. Cycle as much as you can, all the way to the airport if possible. Bagging the bike never takes me more than 2 hours even in the worst case scenario so if you arrive at the airport a little early that's plenty of time.

Airports and flights

Take a direct flight! Direct flights mean less people handling your bicycle, and that's absolutely worth the extra cost of a direct flight. You don't want your bike to be broken on arrival. I took Turkish airlines to Japan once, with a stopover in Istanbul, and my bicycle frame got bent on the flight in and the flight out. Never again.

If you're using a soft case, on the last day of cycling, try to carry around some spare bits of cardboard to pad your bike's sensitive bits with. Always carry a roll of duct tape with you. I've actually hardly ever had to use it, but feel comforted just having it with me. Be sure to get the airport people to put a fragile tag on your bike, and preferably a 'this side up' tag as well. I also duct-tape a giant arrow on each side of my bag to make sure it's obvious which side is the top.

Day to day cycling - what to expect

Japan does not have a lot of dedicated cycling paths, and in areas where there dedicated paths, they're not always right for touring. Japanese cycling paths are made for mamachari bikes. They're often narrow, bumpy, and cross a lot of roads with a little bump on entry and exit. Definitely not ideal for touring. I'm not saying you shouldn't go on these, because sometimes you'll end up on a beautiful stretch of coastal cycling road, devoid of cars and with a beautiful view that you couldn't get from the road. But when it doesn't work out it's perfectly ok to head back onto the main road and make some speed. I've never seen a cycling path in a mountainous area so chances are that even on a touring bike you'll be able to make better progress on the main road than on a cycling road. It's a tradeoff though, just give it a try. Also, most useful things, such as conbinis (convenience stores), vending machines and restaurants tend to be on the main road, not the cycling path.

That leads to probably the most important tip I can give you: always stay on the road! You're allowed to cycle on sidewalks in Japan, and occasionally, in the countryside, there'll be a beautiful wide sidewalk with no one on it. But don't go there! Because you'll regret it. The sidewalk will get narrower and narrower until your wide touring bike won't fit any more and you'll have to carry it over some barriers to get back onto the main road. Sidewalks are also always bumpier and have drops whenever a road intersects with it. Lastly, it's just more dangerous, because inevitably there'll be a point where you'll be rejoining the main road, and you need to make very sure that drivers see you when you're going from sidewalk to main road.

The safest and most comfortable position for a touring cyclist is on the road. Close to the left-most bit, but not too close. On very narrow roads I tend to be well to the right of the white line to make sure that cars don't attempt to pass me when I think it's too dangerous for them to pass me. On wider roads I try to stick to the left of the white line if possible, leaving myself some space to maneuver around obstacles. There's always grates, little bumps or other things that suddenly pop up that you'll have to evade. If you leave yourself enough space to do that then that's no problem.

Quite frequently a road's asphalt is worn down by the countless trucks passing over it, and will have a little valley where each truck's tires hit the asphalt, pushing it to the side and creating a narrow ridge right where bicycles usually feel at home. It's flat-out dangerous to cycle on this ridge. Stay to the right of the it and just drive in the valley, even if that means taking a wider line. Cars and trucks will have to navigate around you and it will be harder for them to overtake, but in my opinion it's their fault that the road ended up like that anyway, so that kinda balances out.

Day to day cycling - some numbers

Distance: I rarely do less than 60 kilometers per day, even on hilly days. The days that I do less than 60 km is because I am setting up for the next day, or because there's an interesting thing I want to see on the way. If you don't have any other plans or things blocking you, plan to do at least 60 a day. The most I've done was 160 km in one day but that was a fluke: just a very long coastal road with the wind in the right direction and not much interesting to see along the way. I wouldn't recommend doing more than 100 kilometers a day. Probably around 80 km is my personal sweet spot. It largely depends on how hilly the terrain is as well. If you're climbing all day then 60 kilometers is already quite an accomplishment.

Speaking of climbing: inclines! Most major coastal roads in Japan don't have inclines over 6%, and 6% is definitely doable by even an unfit person in the lowest gear of his/her touring bike. But there's a lot of qualifiers in that statement: most, major and coastal. You'll definitely encounter inclines of around 10% if you go into the mountains or on smaller roads, or even some coastal roads in more rural areas of Japan. There's something even worse though, something that you're very likely to encounter on a touring trip: the slopes that lead up to a hotel or youth hostel. Those are the absolute worst, and can easily get up to 15-20%. If you can avoid it, don't ever push your bike up a hill! You'll be using different muscles, which may feel like it's less of an effort, but only for a very short while. After that you'll end up being even more exhausted. Just select the lowest gear you have and start cycling, even if it's only at walking pace. If you feel like you can do more, just slowly work your way up the gears as you're climbing. But more often than not you'll find yourself being overly optimistic about what gear you can do. Just take it easy.

For that matter, try not to stand on the pedals. I know it looks cool and it's a great way of powering over a small hill, but hills are seldom small in Japan, and when you're touring you need that energy for the rest of the distance. Just keep a steady rhythm and a sustainable pace.


I hate tunnels so much. They're the absolutely worst place to cycle, yet they're completely unavoidable in Japan. Even if you're sticking to the coast, some coastal areas are just so mountainous that the only way to get from A to B is a single road with at least one long tunnel on it. Expect tunnels of at least 500 meters, but tunnels of up to 2-3 kilometers long are also not uncommon. They tend to be quite narrow: cars coming up behind you will have difficulty passing you if there's oncoming traffic. It'll also be cold and very noisy, so you won't be feeling comfortable in there. Dirt and debris tends to get left behind in tunnels so the side of the road tends to be more difficult to cycle on.

Before entering, always turn on your lights, preferably in super-annoying blink mode. You can't afford to have a car not see you. The front light is important too because some idiots like to overtake in tunnels, and the last thing you want is an oncoming car hitting you full frontal. Most tunnels in Japan are somewhat lit, but a lot of drivers still don't turn their lights on in tunnels, so it's up to you to make them aware that you're there. Take a fairly wide line, staying away from the debris on the side, and actively block drivers from overtaking you if you think there's not enough space to overtake. Sometimes when I know a long tunnel is coming up I stop just before the tunnel to put on my wind-blocking coat, which makes tunnels a lot more comfortable.

Don't worry about inclines. Tunnels are almost often at the top of a climb, or only have a very slight incline. If you do end up in a tunnel with a bit of a climb, don't worry about cars too much, just take it easy going up the hill. It's very easy to feel stressed out about exhausting yourself in a tunnel, but it's worse to actually exhaust yourself and have to stop to catch your breath. Slow and steady.

Lastly, the best way to deal with tunnels is to not take them. Quite often there's a side road that will go around the mountain or hill that the tunnel is crossing. These old roads are often closed down or converted to bicycle-use only. They might be a bit more of a climb, but they're always worth it compared to the stress you get from cycling in tunnels. Alternatively, when you're doing pre-cycling-day research, try to find a route that avoids the tunnels altogether. Even if it's up to 10 kilometers detour I'd say it's still likely to be worth it. Think about it: a lovely path that follows a river slowly upwards over 10 kilometers, with vending machines and beautiful nature along the way, or being cold and miserable in a tunnel for several kilometers? I know which one I prefer. Lastly, do watch out for mountain roads with crazy steep inclines.

Places to stay

Business hotels. Business hotels are awesome. They offer private rooms for affordable prices. They're always clean and predictably always the same no matter where you go. If something says business hotel then you know exactly what you're going to get. I know it's not as glamorous as staying in a traditional ryokan or camping out in the wild, but it's just so damn convenient. During all my trips the places I stayed at the most were business hotels. Use the app using the free wifi you get from 7-11 or Family mart to book a business hotel nearby. If you book on the day you arrive you sometimes get discounted rates too.

The app is not the cheapest though, since the cheaper business hotels tend to not do It's usually enough to just cycle to a town's train station, where there will inevitably be all the business hotels. If you're in a big town or city there'll be loads and one of them will have a free room. If you're in a small town there might only be one, but that will also have a free room since small towns seldom get a lot of visitors. Unless it's golden week. Fuck golden week. Do not go to Japan during golden week, or pre-book your stays during golden week, preferably to be far away from any tourist spot. It just gets crazy busy.

I should talk about ryokans (Japanese inns). They're... quirky. You never know what you get if you stay at a ryokan. The major plus for me is that, whenever I'm traveling in Japan and really can't find anything else, there's somehow always a ryokan nearby. The best way to find one is to ask the locals when you're at your destination. They tend to be old, family-run, sometimes with onsen. The rooms are tatami and everything creaks and there's usually no other guests around. Or perhaps that's just my experience. It's quite fun, but also... challenging, somehow. Still, would recommend.

Hostels: use Japan Youth Hostel. They're great. Run by Japanese people, always in useful locations in interesting buildings, and you meet a lot of local people there with interesting stories to tell. Don't go to any other international/youth hostel. They tend to be run by foreigners and attract the cheapest kind of tourist.

A trip wouldn't be fun if it was just business hotels and hostels, though. Sometimes you'll want to go camping! There's a lot of camping sites in Japan. In earlier trips I used to ask around for 'a place to set up my tent for one night', avoiding the words 'camp site', because camp site in Japanese implies making a camp fire, doing a barbecue and generally being loud and annoying, which no local wants. But if they see that you're a traveler who will be out of their way again the next morning you might get some interesting recommendations. I've camped (with permission) in front of a hotel, at a temple and at a private camp site on an island which was not officially open yet because it was "still too cold". All fantastic experiences.

If you're pre-planning your endpoint for the day then I recommend checking Google Maps for camp sites in the area and marking them on offline maps, then you don't have to ask the locals. Or at the very least you'll know that there's options. During my last trip I marked all camping sites on the entire route I was thinking of taking, from beginning to end, so I knew I always had options. I was betrayed once by a camp site that did indeed exist and was available, but it was crazy expensive, so I had to go somewhere else. That's way worse than a camp site that's closed, cause you can always camp out at a closed camp site if you're quiet and don't cause trouble.

..which leads to the last option: camping out at places other than official camp sites. It's a great way of saving money, but really, I wouldn't do it. Your average 'sanctioned' camp site will cost about 1000-1500 yen, and a shitty business hotel (which is way more comfortable than any camping) will set you back around 5000 yen. Not crazy prices. But if you do find yourself in the middle of nowhere with no hotels, hostels or camp sites nearby, there's always options. Rivers are your best bet. They snake through the landscape and often leave free areas around them that are great for setting up a tent. Under a bridge might seem like a good idea, but I'd recommend against that. The one time I tried that it was just damn noisy and I was worried that someone would show up and chase me away. Beaches are also a good option, but it's tricky to find a remote one that also has a safe (eg. not-sea-level) area that you can put your tent on. In any case, a little prep work means you can avoid all this hassle.

Seriously though, there are loads of cheap hotels in Japan, even in the middle of nowhere, and they almost always have availability. I take my tent with me because I enjoy the flexibility and I enjoy camping every once in a while, but if you're not into that you'll have no trouble at all just sticking to hotels, youth hostels and ryokans.

Weight / Loadout

Short answer: don't worry about carrying too much, and be sure to put a fair bit of it in your front panniers, so that your bike will feel nice and stable.

You'll inevitably be carrying too much things with you. Tools you don't need, too many spare tires, too many clothes, that one camera or lens you think you might use once but end up never using, and so on. Rather than forcing yourself to to go ultra-lightweight, just pack what you need, or whatever fits comfortably inside your panniers. In my case I've got:

  • One front pannier for tent and sleeping bag - full.
  • One front pannier for only clothes - full.
  • One rear pannier with sleeping mat and bike stuff (spare tires, pump, rain wear, duct tape etc.) - maybe 80% full.
  • One rear pannier with day stuff: wind coat, food, bike lock, sometimes a DSLR for easy access - maybe 70% full.
  • A backpack with electronics and documents and things, bound down on top of the rear rack.
  • The soft travel bag that the disassembled bike goes into is quite huge and goes under the saddle. I used to have a smaller bike bag and a bigger sleeping mat, but they swapped places.

Weight really does not matter as much as you think. You're going to be on a heavy bike regardless of how many kilograms you manage to shave off, and you will be suffering when you go uphill, but that's what gears are for. And muscles. Your muscles will adjust within a few days and then start getting stronger at your own pace, so all you really need as a minimum is a bit of muscle that will keep you comfortable in the lowest gear at the steepest incline. Losing maybe 10% of your luggage weight is not really going to help you a lot with that. It might make you a little bit slower, but then you've already committed to being on the bike all day. Doing an extra 30 minutes or doing 5 kilometers less per day is perfectly doable.

Even if you've decided to not carry a tent, sleeping bag and/or sleeping mat with you, I'd still recommend taking four panniers with you. The reason for this is that the balance of the bike will just be so much better with a bit of weight in front. If you've got two ultra-heavy rear panniers and a backpack on top of that you'll end up with a dangerously light front wheel, which will trip you up at some point, most likely when you're putting in some leg muscle at the start of a steep incline, but also at higher speeds after a nice downhill. My bike feels a million times better with two panniers at the front pushing the front tire to the road.


The weather.. is fantastic! Usually. That said, do not cycle on rain days. Seriously. If you can avoid it in any way, don't cycle on rain days. It's just not fun, at least not for me. I ride a bicycle to have fun, enjoy and see beautiful scenery and sights along the way. The rain ruins all of that. Better to wait a day and see things when they're dry. That said, I have been foolish enough to cycle during the rain from time to time. From the last trip, 3 out of 30 days were rain cycle days, and 2 of those 3 were avoidable. (The unavoidable day was cycling to the airport, for which I still preferred rain cycling to bagging the bike and taking a train).

If the rain is only a little then you can probably get away with cycling. It's very unpredictable though. I was frequently checking the weather report at convenience stores during my last trip, and even when the rain radar showed that the rain was over there were still some scattered showers, some strong enough to seriously soak me. But light rain dries very quickly thanks to the wind, so if you're in a fairly built-up area you can risk cycling in light rain and stop at a convience store or restaurant or cafe when it gets heavier.

Rain coats don't help in heavy rain. If you're cycling on a touring bike you will sweat, and if you're wearing a raincoat you'll sweat more and faster. Wear it or don't wear it, you'll be uncomfortable either way. Seriously, just don't cycle. Spend a day walking around town, catch up with blogging or go see a famous temple or shrine. You can even take a train to another town and sightsee there.

Your bike won't like rain either. My panniers are fairly waterproof but still the bottom bit gets a little soaked. And everything gets dirty. Mud gets everywhere when it's raining, all over the panniers, in the chain, in my shoes. It's a good idea to clean the chain and re-grease it after a day of rain cycling.

Yup, I think that's all I can think of right now. Most importantly:

  • Always stay on the road. Don't take the sidewalk. Don't go out of the way for cars. They need to go out of the way for you.
  • Never cycle in the rain. Because wet.
  • Don't plan ahead. At least not too much. Randomness is part of the challenge :)

Have fun!


Update 2016/06/12: fixed some wording, added Weight / Loadout section.


Posted in Cycling , Japan | Tagged , , ,

A new cycling trip!


Last October I did a two-week cycling trip in Shikoku and the north of Kyushu. I was unfit, unprepared and did not enjoy it nearly as much as I should. It's time to fix that: I'm heading back to north Kyushu in mid April with the intent of cycling back to Tokyo along the north coast. I've got exactly a month to do this before I have to head back and restart my job in the UK. I don't intend to rush, though. I won't plan out any day in advance, and will be bringing my tent, so I can camp in random places and don't have to stick to a schedule. That said, I've mostly made up my mind about taking the north coast towards Lake Biwa, and that part of the plan is unlikely to change. What happens after that.. nothing is set in stone. I've got some plans but haven't decided on which way to go yet. It's also not unlikely that I'll simply run out of time and will have to take a train back. Who knows! Not knowing is part of the fun :)

Although by bike's frame was bent heavily after the last cycling trip and was declared beyond repair by the bike shop, I've decided not to believe them. I bent back the frame as best as I could and it's reasonably straight again. I've done a few day trips since then and haven't noticed any weaknesses or further bending happening. Touring will be a lot more stressful on the frame, but I'm mildly confident that it'll hold just fine, since I'll be on good Japanese-quality asphalt practically all of the time. But should it fail during the trip.. well, that'll be a whole other adventure, and surely an interesting one too. I'm ready.

Posted in Japan , Spirit of Japan 3

Cycling trips

Why am I still doing cycling trips? I can't deny that, over time, my reasons for cycling have changed. I've done cycling trips for sightseeing, for staying fit, for doing something amazing together with friends, for nostalgia, and for the sense of accomplishment. But I'd say that none of those are currently the true reason that would motivate me to do another cycling trip.

Coziness is a word I would definitely associate with a cycling trip in Japan. You're never far away from society, and you can be pretty much sure that you will not encounter a single person that will try to do something bad to you if you're on a cycling trip in Japan. You don't have to worry (well, worry less) about safety, theft or crime there; the only challenge is the primary challenge: that of cycling and fitness. For every single cycling trip I've done I've been overweight, yet I've managed to cycle up mountains 1000+ meters high while carrying four heavy panniers and a backpack full of crap with me. Your body adjusts. You can go anywhere. And Japan brings with it the coziness that you need to not have to worry about all the 'side quests': no matter where you go, there will be a vending machine with an energy drink or a person who will offer to let you set up a tent in his garden (or temple).

Another part of cycling trips that I cannot do without is the freedom it gives you, but you need to plan it properly. By 'plan it properly' I mean: don't plan it at all, and give yourself plenty of time to get to your destination so you can make detours and change the plan as you go along. It's such an amazing feeling to learn about something exciting during the trip and to take a multi-day detour just to check it out, or even to just find a random road and decide to see where it goes, without having to worry about whether you'll make your flight or not.

This freedom is a thing that cannot easily be shared. As soon as you start traveling with another person you'll end up in a situation where you're trying to maintain a schedule, and/or one person feeling like they're following the other. That is actually a great thing, and some of my most memorable cycling trips have been with others, but as I do more and more cycling trips I'm starting to lean towards being a solo cyclist. I definitely would still go on trips with friends though.

This post hasn't remotely done justice to the feeling I'm trying to describe. I can list the aspects, I can try to tell you why I enjoy them, but in the end, you just won't understand unless you do a cycling trip yourself. So, get going!

Posted in Cycling , Japan , Thoughts

Day one

Japan has an astonishing tendency to give you exactly what you want exactly when you need it the most.

I am too tired to even type this, and I didn't even cycle that much today. A combination of jet-lag and mishaps I guess. Continuing on where the last post went off, I boarded the plane just fine and arrived at Narita just fine. Normally the customs dude asks me to open my bag and has a rummage around, 9 times out of 10. But today, with a gigantic suspicious bike bag and a huge dry bag which could have been stuffed full of anything, they let me pass without even opening a single one. Oh well, all the more time for me to build my bike.

The naked bike The naked bike

And that's where it kind of went wrong. Somehow my chain got mangled up and had a loop in it. I thought I was prepared, carrying tons of tools this time, plus the experience of fixing my bike in the past, but I am ashamed to admit that I was unable to get rid of the loop, even after half an hour of fiddling with it. That kind of put an end to the whole 'let's cycling!' thing, so I had to look for a plan B.

I finished putting the bike back together so that I could at least roll it, stuffed all of my panniers and other things onto a luggage trolly and went looking for a taxi driver to take me to a bike shop. That's when I realized that I hadn't picked up my mobile internet dongle yet, so I had to pass by the post office. Which was two floors up. Narita has tiny, TINY elevators. I somehow managed to stuff the luggage cart in one corner and then jammed the door with my foot whilst pushing the bike into the elevator in a vertical position. Incredibly cramped. Then I accidentally got off at the 2nd floor instead of the 3rd floor, which is where the post office was, so I had to get back into the elevator, except this time it was occupied for 5 times in a row by people going from 1st to 3rd, and there was no way in hell that me and my luggage would fit in there, so I had to wait. I did get my mobile internet in the end, and even managed to ride the elevator down again to get to the taxis.

There was only one taxi that looked remotely large enough to fit all my luggage, so I went and asked the guy how much it was to the nearest bike shop. Then the driver was like "why do you need to go there? I can fix it for you" and then he fixed it. Turns out his older sister is a bicycle enthusiast and he had some experience fixing her bicycle. Of all the random luck..

All in all it took a good two hours, getting all the bits and bobs mounted. I remember the bike shop guy from London complaining that he had a lot of trouble getting the Surly front rack mounted, but it was easy as pie. Even I could do it in under 10 minutes. I took a short break inside to eat and drink something, and then it was time to cycle!

Oh no! Forgot to put on sunscreen! 10 minutes after starting I had to take a break to put on sunscreen. Despite applying sunscreen 3 times over the course of today's afternoon, my face still got red, and my arms are burnt. Navigation was a breeze thanks to the offline maps, courtesy of the MapsWithMe app. I'd have preferred to use ViewRanger because it has a lot more features, but it's such a fucking pain to get the maps into it, whereas MapsWithMe just lets you download the entire country with one tap. Way better.

This creepy dude kept hanging out near my bike with has scratched-up tablet This creepy dude kept hanging out near my bike with has scratched-up tablet

The first cycling steps were hard, but familiar. It took a few minutes getting used to the increased load on the front wheel, which makes turning a lot harder but also makes the bike way more stable when going fast. It'll take a few weeks to get used to the extra weight, because that's a killer. There weren't a lot of slopes today but there was a very strong wind pointing in exactly the wrong direction, and I really had to fight to make progress. I felt like I did on the first real cycling day of the Spain trip: somehow burning fuel from somewhere, but not generating a lot energy.

Zig-zag time Zig-zag time

Around 16:00 I started to zigzag a bit, trying out some smaller roads, looking for potential places to camp, but (this bit of) Chiba is just way too flat and built-up, camping really was out of the question. So I figured I'd head into Mobara, the nearest town according to the road signs, but that turned out to be another 12km away. For about 20km I was following a road that was filled with giant outlet stores, massive car shops, giant supermarkets and all kinds of huge warehouse-like buildings. Not very entertaining.

Right around the time when the sun really started to show signs of going down, I wandered into a conbini and asked if there was any hotel or youth hostel around, as I hadn't seen any or even any signs for them on the way in. The conbini lady told that there was a business hotel just around the corner. Of all the dumb luck (x2). I arrived there, took the last room they had available and went out for a walk to take some photos. I'm not sure why I did this, it just came naturally. Must have been a programmed action that I still remember from the last cycling trip.

I need to sort out my luggage. I'm definitely carrying too much, though I'm not sure if I'll want to send something back over the course of the trip. Will have to do a couple more days to find out. But mostly I am having difficulty accessing the things I need. I started with my system from last time but things got jumbled up during the hassle of building the bike, and also because I've now got my big bike bag hanging over the front panniers, preventing me from easily accessing them. Another thing that bothers me is where to put my camera. I used to have simple compact with retractable lens, which would easily fit into the top zipper of my pannier where I could reach it in a split second. Now that I've switched to micro four thirds, that pocket is too small, and reaching inside the main pouch is just too tedious if you just want to take a quick snapshot while you're cycling around. I tried mounting my shoulder-strap camera bag onto the top of the big bike bag on top of the front panniers, which is a near-ideal position but the camera  bag is too small and tedious to open, so I still can't take the camera out quickly. Might have to buy a new camera bag, or else a handlebar clip/mount or something similar.

Deliciously average bento Deliciously average bento

That's all for today. More tomorrow? More tomorrow.

(Trying to avoid Twitter and Facebook for this trip. They feel too real-time..)

Posted in Japan , Spirit of Japan 2

Choose Life

Choose life. Choose a waifu. Choose an anime. Choose a manga. Choose memorabilia, Blu-Ray DVD's, Master Grade gunpla and 1:1 scale dakimakura. Choose online games, social media and contractual labor. Choose Comiket excursions. Choose your friends. Choose a light novel with predictable storylines and heroines voiced by Kugimiya fucking Rie. Choose image boards and wondering who the fuck you are on a Sunday morning. Choose sitting on that couch watching the same old cliche'd anime season after season, stuffing fucking junk food into your mouth. Choose rotting away at the end of it all, pissing your last in your mother's basement, wondering if choosing not to get a life was worth it in the end. Choose your future. Choose anime... but why would I want to do a thing like that?

Copied from here (nsfw). Yes, no one I know will get this, but I must leave it somewhere.

Posted in Japan

The best anime music videos

Each and every one of these videos impresses me beyond belief.

Posted in Japan

I love Atsugi

I LOVE ATSUGI! I just thought that was worth mentioning. Not that I'll ever forget.

Today is my last day in Atsugi, and tonight was, without a doubt, brilliant. I had a great time meeting Katagiri and Harasono, and we jumped from a place that served sashimi and fried whale (which was excellent, by the way) to a superb JapanIndian curry place. It was great remembering old times, and also great to see how things are now.

After the meet I went back to the hotel to fetch my bicycle, which I had promised to return to the bicycle shop. In return for returning it, they gave me a 1000 yen discount. I was under no real obligation to return it but felt I should since otherwise they'll think all foreigners are criminals.

Anyway, I couldn't really return it without doing a final run around the block. So I went. To every place in Atsugi that I have memories of. I don't know why but this place just makes me feel so incredibly nostalgic. It's the only place that can really make my heart hurt for remembering it. I went all the way south, first to say goodbye to the youth heim, then to the place my Chinese buddies used to live, and a bit further than that even to the riverside place where I used to reminisce about the month's events. Then I cycled back along the riverside alongside the Sony building, another one of my favourite quiet spots. The sound the summer insects make along that road is just beautiful. Then a bit further still, and I've arrived at the train bridge. From there on I turned back onto the main road and made my way to the bicycle shop. I left a 'thank you' note in the basket and started walking back towards the station.

But what's that? IT'S OTSU!!! Imagine the chance of that. Of the very few people I know that are still living in Atsugi I happen to meet the one guy I didn't have time to meet yet, right before I have to leave Japan. Awesome! He was just on his way home from Tokyo. We had a brief catching-up and then I was on my way again. How could this ever happen anywhere else than in Atsugi? I was smiling to myself as I walked on.

I walked through the 'high street' (ichibangai as they call it here, 'first street') and stopped to buy a cheeseburger at McDonalds. As I was eating it I noticed the typical crowd there: an old lady sleeping there, possibly homeless (people sleep in McD all the time in Japan), a salaryman kind of guy wearing headphones and a severly drunk hipster-kind-of-girl. Then I left and walked all the way to the end of the street and sat down in the park for a while, staring at pretty much exactly the same distribution of people as there were in McDonalds. Then I felt it was time to go, and went back to the hotel.

What a month it's been. I've experienced so many great moments here, so many good times. Pretty much all of them were because I used to live here. That gave me the memories and the confidence I needed to enjoy this place the most. I still love it here, and I don't think that feeling will ever change. Although I'm terrified of that feeling growing weaker, because it's the best (sustainable) feeling I've ever known. But all good things must come to an end, and I am not at all sad about leaving. I know I can't stay here and need to get on with my life. It really is exactly the same as liking the town you experienced your childhood in: you only remember the good things, but you know you must move on to somewhere else to have a future. That's how I feel right now. But I also know that Atsugi will always be there for me, and I can go back any time I feel like it.


Posted in Japan , Thoughts | Tagged ,

Cycled to Enoshima!

And I survived :D

More later, a bit tired now. Many photos were taken. My crappy old bike is doing great, even though it's only got one gear. I managed to time things so I rode back along the coast during sunset, which was great fun. There's always so much stuff going on there. People playing games on the beach, surfing, swimming, playing music, walking weird dogs, playing with weird children..

Anyway, sleep.

Posted in Cycling , Japan