Final call


At the end of my first solo cycling trip I came back to the Netherlands unannounced. I had spread my blogposts a bit wider over time so they ended up being a few days out of date. I was planning to surprise my parents by cycling over when they didn't expect me yet. It was quite fun to do. But just before reaching my parents' house I had a little break moment on a bench in my home town. Then I suddenly realized: "If I go this way, my trip ends, I see my parents, I'm back in a familiar situation. But if I go the other way, a new trip begins and I will end somewhere random and unknown".

Since then I've had several trips with such a moment at the end. Last October's trip's end was quite memorable, perhaps even painful. I was unfit and overweight, and suffered technical difficulties during that entire trip. I had finally gotten myself to a point where I was able to enjoy cycling again, and there it was: the long bridge to the airport. All I had to do was go straight instead of turning right and a whole new adventure would begin. It tempted me. Every time it tempts me. Every time I resist.

Although, at the end of the 2014 trip I didn't quite resist. It was a trip without a 'true' ending, in that I hadn't fixed how I planned to get back to Tokyo from Hokkaido, and I also didn't have a hard time limit such as a flight to catch either. I changed my mind twice during that trip's end: first I decided to cycle back instead of taking a ferry, and then, while cycling back, I decided it was a good time to stop, and quit halfway. I had nothing left to prove, and without a powerful goal left it's hard to focus. At least I think that's why I ended up doing that. In any case, it felt like the right decision at the time, and it still feels right.

This time I didn't think I was going to be tempted. My mind was clear yesterday, my thoughts wrapped up, and I was and still am ready and looking forward to resuming my real life back in London. But still.. It happened on the last bridge before the airport. Again. I had stepped off my bike to take a photo and was hesitating to walk back a bit to buy a drink from a vending machine. It was then that I heard the voice in my head that told me that all I had to do was turn back, turn right and just keep on cycling, and a whole new cycling trip could begin right now.

I never intended to give in to that voice. Not this time. But I can't help but try to imagine the consequences if I did. In this case two people very close to me would end up being very pissed off at me, and my bank account would be too. Not to mention the company I'm supposed to start working for again soon. There's always consequences. But despite that there is always the temptation. Maybe one day I will give in to it.


Right. Time to get back to real life.

Posted in Spirit of Japan 3

On my way home

The weather is sometimes not on my side. Occasionally the wind propels me and I hardly have to do anything. On other days it rains and it's grey and it's difficult to cycle. It looks like tomorrow will be one of those days..

It can't be helped (しかったない). It's the last day before I go back, and I have to get to the airport somehow. The bus company told me off last time (every time, actually) for bringing a bicycle with me as luggage and (once again) threatened to not take me next time. That leaves me with two options: bag the bike in Atsugi and carry it onto the train with me, carrying also my backpack and three fully loaded panniers, or cycle to the airport and bag the bike there. The latter option is by far the more agreeable, even if I get a little wet while doing it. At least it's warmer now since I'm in Kanagawa and it's the middle of May. The really cold days are behind me.

Tonight I did what I usually do on the day before going home: I took a casual stroll around town and eventually ended up at the riverside where I sat down and had a break. During other times that I've been back here my thoughts often dwelled on the past, remembering the good times, etcetera. But this time all I could think about was the future. Not forcefully though: at times likes these I just let my mind wander and let it pick a topic by itself, and it chose the future.

I ended up making plans and goals for what I want my life to be like in the next couple of years, and evaluating how my current situation compares to that. When I think about the past I often forget how much possibilities and connections are available to me right here, right now. I know where I want to go, but I'm in no hurry. I will patiently await the right opportunities.

In the previous post I wrote a bit about my eternal fight against time, and the realization that the second time you do something is also the first time you do something for the second time. The thought that struck me today was: I only hold first times in such high value exactly because they are scarce, and can only happen once. If I could do something and get that same first-time kind of feeling out of it then I probably wouldn't be blogging about it right now. It wouldn't be special. The fact that first times never come again is exactly what makes them priceless.

Some final, random thoughts to share:

  • Before the trip began I felt quite cynical and seriously questioned my ability to find and appreciate beauty on this trip. I considered myself cynical and skeptical about the environment still having an effect on me.
  • After the trip I can safely say that I've had moments where I looked out on amazingly beautiful scenery and all I could think of at those moments was: "words cannot describe how beautiful this is". I guess I'm not quite completely cynical yet after all.
  • I went out with a Japanese friend a few days ago and spoke Japanese the entire day. My Japanese has not improved since years ago, but it hasn't really gotten worse yet either. Just like my Dutch, it's at a stable level, never changing.
  • It's a lot more difficult to think mean thoughts in Japanese. If you're properly absorbed in the language and the culture then it's just harder (at least for me) to express those feelings. Although there's swear words like 'fuck' and 'shit' in Japanese, you'll never ever be in a situation in real life where you hear people use them. There's just no need for them.
  • I went to KFC today because it has a great view of the train station and because I loooove chicken. I distinctly remember there was always that one song being played there that I absolutely hated. Today they only played songs that I recognized and liked, and even a few from my personal top 500. Not bad.
  • I'm planning to do a post with some statistics on my cycling trips, and some advice. Maybe it'll be useful to other people wanting to cycle in Japan.
  • Dokkōdō


Posted in Spirit of Japan 3 , Thoughts

Here, have some Fuji

I'm not quite used to my new camera, and I think my editing skills have dropped as well. Still, practice makes perfect.

IMG_0181PS IMG_0227PS IMG_0238PS IMG_0246PS IMG_2820PS IMG_2835PS

Posted in Photography , Spirit of Japan 3

Assorted Writings


Why business hotels are great

Once you get above a certain price range, usually 5000 yen in the countryside, maybe 6-7000 yen in the city, business hotels are all the same. They offer the exact same identical experience. A bed that always looks the same, always in the same position in the room, always with the same headboard controls. A little desk that's filled with pamphlets and a tv, and a very shitty chair, either with or without a backrest. Japan does not want you to relax when you sit down.

But this perfectly predictable experience is exactly what's great about it. You know exactly what you get when you end up at a business hotel. No shared dormitories or bathrooms, no unexpected low quality part of the experience, no forced conversations with the owner or random people. Admittedly, random conversations can also be a high point, but if you're not in the mood for that you can simply opt out by going to a business hotel.

The beds are great. I don't recall ever going to a business hotel where I didn't get a great night's sleep. Contrast that to my experience in the ryokan a few nights ago, where the futon was comfortable but the blanket so narrow that it kept falling off in the middle of the night. The room in that ryokan was freezing, so I had the choice of either accepting that or figuring out how to use an oil heater. Sometimes I just don't want to think about that stuff.

Lastly, these days pretty much every business hotel has free wifi, and since it's Japan, that wifi is fast. I've been to one or two hotels that did offer free wifi but had some technical trouble, but that's a rare occurrence. I just feel at home when I have fast internet and a room that shields me from unwanted social interaction. Hotels that are more expensive actually detract from this experience, because they are less predictable and often require more interaction. And all you get for that is a slightly larger room with perhaps a better view, but even that's not guaranteed. Business hotels are the pinnacle of modern society. Just like conbinis.


If you do weird shit, own it

Sometimes (quite often actually) I arrive at my destination drenched in sweat, with salt stains on my cap and sometimes my clothes, wearing dirty, worn-out cycling gloves and sporting a massive sunburn all over my face. It is with this red-nosed face that I have to calmly walk up the reception of a hotel that's inevitably fancier than I had thought it was when I booked it, and have to go through the check-in procedure ("Hello, I have a reservation. Where can I park my bicycle?") while a bunch of extremely well-dressed hotel guests look on in utter shock.

It's even worse when it's raining, since I'll be dripping all over the hotel floor with my wet clothes, even after trying to dry myself up a bit. The most embarassing encounter I've had during this trip was on the horrible rain day, where I decided to stop cycling early, but since I hadn't prepared for that I had to walk into a random place to ask for nearby hotels. I was completely soaked, inside and out. I walked into what looked like a tourist information place that was in the same building as a train station, and asked if there were any cheap hotels nearby. I had expected the conversation to be very quick, with someone just saying "here, take that road and after a kilometer or so there'll be a few hotels". That would have been perfectly fine. Instead, what happened is that I walked into a local travel agency, and both ladies behind the counter started calling all the nearby hotels to ask if they had availability..

In the meantime I was still being very wet and leaking into a puddle on the floor. It took a really long time for them to finish calling all the hotels but I didn't think it polite to just say thank you and walk away while they were doing it, so I waited for a long, long time, unable to sit anyhwere because I would drench the chairs, unable to lean on the counter because the counter would get wet. Eventually I told them it's fine, please don't bother any more, and they gave me a piece of paper with a map on it, which my wet hands immediately turned into something unusable. I went to get my phone but couldn't unlock it because my wet hands just made the screen wet and unusable, so I had to ask the ladies for tissues to wipe my hands and screen on. Ugh. I was not happy. And since there weren't any hotels nearby I had to cycle 8 more kilometers in the rain, through the hills, in a terrible downpour. But in the end I got to a business hotel, so I was happy. That's what happens when it rains.

Or when it's really hot and I continue aftersweating as I'm checking in and attempt to not look embarassed when the receptionist offers me a towel to wipe my sweat off. I get extremely embarassed when I sweat a lot, but the only way to deal with that is to own it. I tend to pretend it's just not happening, which helps somehow. At least when I'm just coming off a heavy touring bike I've got an excuse for it.

I think I'm a pretty shy person, especially when it comes to interacting with strangers, but after being forced into situations like those I do find myself adapting to it, and becoming less bothered by it. I start out as "I'm so sorry for forcing you to deal with me while I am like this", but then eventually turns into "Yeah, I'm like this, but it's your job to deal with me, so deal with me". Liberating, in a way. I even asked a supermarket worker where the beef jerky was the other day. Take that, society.




I can't think of any other way to say it: the nostalgia has worn off. The memories are still there, but it's been six years now since I lived here, and I've been back many times since as a tourist / cycling tripper / reminiscer. The first few times I came back here it greatly affected me to see the place I had made so many memories in, but nowadays it's starting to feel the same as when I back to the Netherlands to visit my parents: an integral part of my life, sure, but unmistakably something in the not-recent past. The way I feel about this is... meh. I've moved on. Got more important present-day things to think about.


The lighting in Japan is different

"The lighting in Japan is different" is my half-assed explanation for why I somehow end up feeling better about the photos I take in Japan compared to the photos I take anywhere else. I don't really know if it is the actual lighting, or the environmental details, such as the way the roads are built, the kind of materials used, the signs, the ambiance. It might just be me projecting my mood at the time of taking the photo. The feeling of taking photos on a solo cycling trip is very different than that of taking photos on a holiday retreat with the girlfriend. Maybe suffering to get a good shot is what makes me feel this way? It's either that or the lighting in Japan really is different.


Making decisions without hesitation

There's two parts to this. The first is that, when I'm confident, making decisions that I'm already fairly certain about, just happen. There's no worry, no hesitation. I know what I want to do and I just do it. If I'm not confident I'll probably still end up making the same decision, but I'll mull it over for way too long and worry about it way too much. Totally no point in doing that if you end up with the same end result. When I'm not confident I also worry more about completely irrelevant decisions, such as which meal to choose at a restaurant.

The second thing about making decisions is that for some things deciding things way in advance just doesn't work. Either you're lacking the information you need until closer to the decision time (such as with the weather report, and rain), or sometimes you just don't know how you'll feel about it until a lot of other things have happened.

For this latest cycling trip I had sort of planned the first part, but I didn't know for sure which way to go to get back to Tokyo, and whether to linger at certain places or get a move on. Before the trip started I was toying with the thought of spending some time at Lake Biwa and maybe cycling around it. I also though about following the coast line more closely, taking some of the more remote coastal routes in the Kyoto and Kanazawa area. That's something I could have thought a lot about before the trip, and could even have made a decision on that, but I'm sure that once the trip started I would have just changed my decision depending on how I felt at the time. There's no use planning some things, you just need to let them happen naturally.

Another example of this is that I had 'decided' and even looked forward to spending time in the cities of Kanazawa and Matsumoto. But I reached Kanazawa at a horribly busy time, and Matsumoto way too early in the day, so it didn't fit in with the rest of the trip. Since I didn't preplan any of it I felt great about just cycling on and focusing on the trip. In retrospect most of my city stays have not been nearly as fun as staying in random or remote places.


Personal space decreasing

When I'm cycling and take a conbini break I tend to lean my bike against the side of the conbini building. I do have a kickstand for the bike but when it's fully loaded the kickstand tends to not be enough to keep the bike up, especially when I start touching luggage. Inevitably there is an ashtray outside for icky smokers, and my bike often ends up quite close to it.

In the countryside I've noticed several times that, while I'm taking a break, a smoker gets out of his car and lights up, but stays nowhere near me. When he's finished he puts out his cigarette in the ashtray quickly, while keeping as much distance between me and him (it's always a him, not a her). The same goes for school children who roll up to the conbini on their bikes. Whenever they notice me they park as far away from me as possible.

But as I got closer to Tokyo my sphere of private conbini space kept decreasing. In the five lakes area people just don't care any more and stand right next to my bicycle smoking a cigarette. As they do this they still completely ignore me, of course, because talking to strange foreigners on bicycles is not the way of 99.99% of the Japanese people.

If my bike is a bit away from the ashtray but they still stand close to me I make it a point of moving away from them, because I find smoking disgusting. It sucks when you're not in a designated smoking area, got there first, and some stinky people move to stand next to you blowing their smoke towards you. Screw you, smokers. You are ruining nature and the outdoors.



When I cycled down the road that was my first climb during my first solo cycling trip, I couldn't help but think about how ridiculously unprepared I was when I started that trip.

It had been a late start because I decided at the last minute to get my rear tire replaced. It was in utterly terrible condition and I should've done that a lot sooner. Despite that I still reached Miyagase lake at a reasonable time, so I decided to cycle on until later in the day, not knowing the conditions of the road ahead. I wouldn't call that a mistake per se, but it's definitely not something I would do again if I could avoid it.

This was pre-smartphone days, and I don't remember if I even had a map with me at the time. All I knew is that there was a long road that would lead up to the five lakes, and I'd figure out the next step when I got there. I had no real experience with proper mountain passes, other than the road leading up to the lake. In my memories that road was desolate and remote, with not much civilization surrounding it. I likely felt this way because I grew up cycling in the greater Tokyo area, and that kind of warps your mind about how you imagine the rest of Japan looks like. Surprisingly there are areas of Japan where there aren't 20 conbinis within a one-kilometer radius of yourself. That said, when I cycled back down I noticed quite a lot of conbinis, camp sites, houses.. On the first trip, on the first day, it was the most remote road I'd ever cycled. On the third trip, on the last day, it was a cozy, comfortable ride through a suburban area with loads of facilities.

My muscles were weak. I didn't realize this at the time because I hardly ever took mountain roads. I assumed that mountain roads would be about as tough as the ride to Miyagase lake, except longer. I didn't know if I could actually keep up the climb if the road was longer. Or steeper. It was both. I broke down during that second day on the first trip. What I had thought was a straight climb up had turned into an up-down road, and all the progress I'd made climbing up in the last 30 minutes would sometimes be completely wiped out by another downhill. My muscles just stopped working. I couldn't power the bike any more. I tried pushing it up on foot, but that was even more difficult, and strained my arms to death. I remember going at it on the lowest possible gear, standing every few minutes at the roadside to catch my breath, and just sitting at the roadside for many minutes, trying to give my muscles time to recover.

It was probably also a lack of technique. I noticed this in the last few days: when I'm not thinking about it I tend to choose a way too high cadence for a climb instead of relying on my muscles. This makes me run out of breath and doesn't actually strain my muscles much, and after three weeks of cycling they can absolutely take it, so doing a lower cadence makes much more sense. If I forget this bit of information and technique after a few days of break time, surely I would not have known this on the first day of the first trip. That would've made things unnecessarily tough. I did not have my rhythm yet.

I've cycled other difficult roads, but no road has ever pushed my physical limits as much as that road. Even now, at my current strength, it would be a damn difficult climb. But I doubt I will ever experience the same kind of cycling despair I felt during that first trip.It is my own personal most-difficult road.


A wacky way to pass the time

During the middle part of the trip the loneliness got to me for a while, and I found a strange, yet highly entertaining, coping mechanism. I know that 'lonely' is a bit of a presumptuous word to describe my state, given that I was chatting with my girlfriend at least once a day and interacted with at least one human being very day (usually the hotel receptionist), but lack of human interaction did limit that kind of interactive input on my brain.

What my brain decided to do, in the evenings when I had planned to have an early sleep, was to have intriciate conversations in my head between the people I know. At first it kind of just happened at random, but as I started to see the fun in it I was able to put any two random people together and let them have a conversation about any random topic, in their own voices, simulating their personalities as best I could. Although that's not something I did consciously: I would just think to myself "let's have person A talk to person B" and my mind would automatically fill in the personalities of those people. It only works well on the people I know best, of course.

The way the mind works just fascinates me. During the cycling trip I was sometimes in the middle of nowhere, with no internet, no other people to talk to, and nothing really to do until the next morning when I would start cycling again. I'd be physically quite tired as well, so wouldn't feel like doing physical things either.

The mind adapts to everything. A few months ago I wouldn't know what to do in a situation like that. I'd be focused on productivity, working, doing things on the internet, browsing 9gag, checking email, being active. If you suddenly took that away from me my brain wouldn't just accept that. It would still be in the frame of mind of trying to get back to being busy. My mind wouldn't be able to be at rest.

Physical exhaustion goes a long way towards getting to that resting state. After a full day of cycling you'll feel perfectly okay to just stare at the ocean for an hour or two. Your mind won't feel like it will need to do something or get back to something, it will just be completely at rest. At peace. It's a state of mind I have trouble inducing when I'm at home because I have so many distractions readily available to be enjoyed. For a person of low self-discipline like myself the only way to get to that state is to force myself to suffer physically; to exhaust myself until my mind no longer has the energy to think about anything.

I'm perfectly okay with that. It's the best state of mind I've ever had. Well worth suffering for.


Imagination is a powerful thing

During this trip I've passed two places that were used as locations in two popular anime. I've seen both anime, even quite liked both anime, yet when I visited those places I just could not see the connection. I mean, I can see it after the fact, knowing both the source and the final product, but what I cannot see, no matter how hard I try, is how a particular place in real life could end up being such a fantastic location in fiction.

Kami/Kasumi town, the inspiration for the location in the anime Air (TV). I went there and it was grey and cloudy. I saw some of the locations that appeared in the anime and I felt no connection. All I saw was an average grey Japanese town in the middle of nowhere that trucks sometimes passed through, had its one or two cheesy things that are supposed to be its tourist highlight, and above all the main road that connects me to where I came from and where I am going. There was not a hint of anime fantasticness in the town itself, that part all came from the mind of the creator.

Kizaki lake was a bit different. It inspired the setting for Onegai Teacher and Onegai Twins, and I could sort of kind of see that, given that when I went to Kizaki lake it was extremely sunny and holiday-like. It had a bit of a fantastic air to it. But, in my mind, the fantastic air was a property of the real-life place that made it more real-life-fantastic, not anime-fantastic. It was still a real-life place with real-life people living there, with a road connecting A to B, trucks passing by, regular Japanese tourists that are visiting, the usual biker gang parade and a very typical Japanese camp site. There were no alien school teachers or dodgy love triangles going on as far as I could tell, nor would it ever come up in my mind, while seeing the lake, that such things would make a great story to tell for a place like this.

I don't know how anime creators do it. How do they see a place in real life and imagine a world like in anime? I think I lack the imagination required to do something like that, but I have the deepest respect for the people that do. The world must be a wonderful place for people who can do that.


Economies of scale

Not thinking about what you're thinking is bad. Sometimes I'm on the bike and a truck driver cuts me off, and the first thing that comes to my mind is "All truck drivers are bad". Usually I'm able to put that into perspective, but on some days, when it's raining, windy and I'm cold, I lose that ability, and for the rest of the day I'll feel like I'm on some kind of personal vendetta against truck drivers. It's pretty dumb, and I realize that afterwards. Sometimes it's hard to ignore though, especially when a malignant stereotype you've formed in your mind gets confirmed over and over again. The more it gets confirmed, the harder it is to keep an open mind.

So let's talk about Chinese tourists in Japan. If there ever was a stereotype, it's that of the Chinese tourbus pulling up at a tourist site with a stream of Chinese people exiting, loudly talking of course, and generally being in the way of everyone else while they are there, taking photos with their tablets and selfie sticks and generally altering the environment just so they can get the best shot, even if it's bad for the environment.

I've seen exactly that. That is a thing that happens. To name one specific encounter where all the things I mentioned happened at the same time: Yamanakako, two days ago. I was cycling around the lake along the cycling path when I noticed a big tour bus parked at a parking space I was cycling towards. The tourists had already come out and were randomly dispersing to take photos of the lake, but mainly staying on the cycling path and blocking the way.

I didn't have a bell, and ringing my bell is kind of rude anyway, so I just slowed down, made some click-click noises with my wheels and occasionally yelled 'excuse me' to get people to let me pass. The tourists were so focused on themselves that they didn't notice me until the very last minute, and were suddenly so surprised by the sight of a big bicycle coming towards them (at a near-stalling 3 kph...) that they didn't know what to do and nearly fell over themselves trying to get out of the way.

As I was sighing over their ignorance I suddenly heard a loud 'AAH' and saw a couple suddenly run towards their lake, oversized phones out and at the ready. And then I saw what they saw: a lone swan had walked up to the shore and was hanging out there. The woman immediately ran towards it and posed next to it, but before the man could take a photo the swan (naturally) got upset at the invasion of its personal space and started attacking the woman. This amused me greatly. The swan calmed down when the woman went a bit further away and I think they still got their shot in the end.

Now here's the twist: the tourists from the tour bus were not Chinese, they were Dutch!


actually, no they weren't. They were Chinese. It would have been a nice twist, but I distinctly heard Cantonese being spoken by the tourists, so that narrows it down a lot. I found the presence of the Chinese tourists annoying and I thought it detracted from the quality of the area.

I also found the presence of myself annoying and thought it detracted from the quality of the area.

Imagine if, instead of a tour bus full of Chinese tourists, there'd be 80 touring bicycles manned by sweaty hipster Dutch people like me. That would be so goddamn annoying! You've got this beautiful area, with great historical value, and fantastic sights to see, yet it's value is being diluted by the presence of so many people who obviously don't belong here. This is not the fault of any particular nationality, or group of people (other than that they're all tourists), it's just a natural consequence of scale. The Fuji five lakes are a day trip away from the biggest metropolitan area in the world, and a short holiday away from one of the most populous countries in the world; a country whose citizens have been getting richer and richer lately and are able to afford that kind of holiday. It's only natural that the most awesome spots get visited the most, but I think we shouldn't deny that the presence of tourists, regardless of nationality or race, detracts from the experience.

There's no easy solution to this 'problem'. You can limit the amount of tourists that are allowed to be in a particular area, and you probably should at some point, but that's hardly the perfect scenario. Ideally you'd have so much area, so much sights to see, that there's never any one particular area that gets saturated with tourists. This is extremely difficult though because tourists always either go for the close-by, low-hanging fruit, or the most popular, most famous place. Those places will always be at risk of being oversaturated.

Another example: motorcyclists. By themselves they're not too annoying, but in the weekends they tend to go out in large groups riding their needlessly loud motorcycles through the lovely countryside, pretty much ruining the experience for anyone nearby who wants to enjoy the quiet nature. I don't think it's nice to create inconvenience for others by making a lot of noise. This does not scale.

It would be great if, like in online gaming, we could simply set up multiple servers that serve the same location, splitting up the players into different servers. I wonder if VR will ever reach the level of fidelity required to be able to reproduce exactly, in all senses, the sensation of a particular place. You'd also need to simulate the humans in that area so I guess that's a silly argument. If we had that kind of technology then decreasing tourist spot saturation would be the lowest priority thing we'd use it on.

So I guess the only viable solution is indeed to limit the amount of tourists allowed to enter a place. But where do you draw the limit? I've been to some temples in Kyoto where you're hardly able to walk before stepping over another person. I wouldn't call that a great experience, but it's definitely a way to maximize the amount of people able to see it. For the very best places though, I would not mind at all to pay a lot more in order to be able to share the place with less people.

One could claim that paying more to have less people around a popular spot is not fair to poorer people, since they might not be able to go to many such places that are rate-limited. But... this is a capitalist society, and your personal well-being does not depend on visiting a tourist spot, so I wouldn't call it an essential life need. If charging a higher entrance fee means cutting you off from some cultural heritage, then so be it. Go read up on it on wikipedia or something. You'll probably learn more from that than by actually being there. Or better yet: just have high-tariff days and low-tariff days, then you can choose if you want the crowds or not. Either way, it's something humanity is going to have to deal with in the next century, as the ability to travel and visit tourist sights around the world becomes available to an ever increasing portion of the world population.


Spandex cyclists

Before I begin I have to admit to some odd type of prejudice here: all the spandex cyclists I've talked to were extremely nice people. I've blogged before about how some of them encouraged me, helped me and even guided me to a brilliant camp site. That said, my main feeling about spandex cyclists as a group is: I can't seem to get myself to respect them as a group.

I'm not sure why! And I think my now liking them is likely to be a personality flaw in myself, not in them. Still, I should write about it, because why not.

What amazes me about this is how little interaction I actually have with the people I 'do not get along with'. All it takes for a road racer to pass me while I'm going up a hill without saying anything to me and I immediately conclude to myself that I don't like him. It's silly because I don't feel that way towards scooters, cars or trucks. I mean, I often hate on trucks but for a lot more reason: they stink and if they pass me too close, I die.

I don't want to hate on the sporting accomplishments of racing cyclists either: I think it's damn inpressive that they can go so fast and so far on their bikes. I'm not competing with them in any way. Touring cycling is an entirely different thing.

Yet... perhaps it isn't? Perhaps I feel that since we are both enjoying the same roads, the same mountains, the same nature, my way of enjoying it is better than theirs? After all, why be in such a hurry to get through this beautiful scenery? Why spend shitloads of money buying the super-very-best equipment if all it does is accelerate you from 30mph to 32mph? Will it affect your enjoyment that much to be only a little bit faster? What's the point of spending so much money on a hobby if you can enjoy the exact same places for way less?

The beauty of a bicycle, to me, is that it can take you anywhere, away from populated spots into places that others normally can't go. A lot of places are too far to walk to yet difficult to access by car, especially if you haven't planned it in advance. On my bike I get to cycle around an area, spot an interesting road or landmark and just find my way towards it. It's about exploration. Yet I've not seen many (perhaps even any) spandexy cyclists do that. I tend to encounter them on major roads, going from A to B. There doesn't appear to be an element of exploration to them. I could be making all of this shit up. Like I said, I hardly interact with them, so I don't know.

Is it fair to base my opinion on being passed, over the years, by hundreds of spandexy cyclists? Probably not. But lacking any other input, this appears to be my preliminary conclusion. I don't feel drawn towards it. Looking at them I have never felt the desire to buy a racing bike and try one for myself. It appears to just.. not be my thing.

That said, I'm still very happy to interact with someone while I'm on my bike, and I've only ever had good experiences whenever someone talks to me while I'm cycling. Of all the users of the road I very much prefer the spandexy cyclist over anything else. Other than touring bikes, of course ;)


My eternal fight against time

Time bothers me. I've blogged about this before at least several times, but it's still on my mind now. It bothers me that this is my third big solo cycling trip. It bothers me that I will never feel the same way again about a cycling trip in the way that I felt about the first cycling trip. Time passes and I cannot ever get back the exact same feeling I had in the past. No turning back. It just pushes forward. There's absolutely nothing I can do about it, nor any chance of being able to do anything about it in the future. Even if everyone becomes immortal time will still flow in only one direction, and your first X will always be your first X and will never ever come back.

It's the way our brains work. It's not a fundamental law of the universe. Yes, time flows only one way, but its our brains that interpret experiences, and the only reason that first times feel special is that our brains did not contain any prior experience. It seems that the less contents are in your brain, the stronger the new experience feels. It's inevitable that, once your brain's full, things will go numb. That scares me.

I believe there's two fundamental elements about our mind: the memories bit, which is just data storage, and the personality bit, which is our active neural networks that is actually us. Even if we don't remember a particular experience vividly, it has already contributed in shaping our neural network in a particular way. For example, I might not remember a particular time that I was at a beach and someone bought me ice cream, but my neural network will have increased the happiness level for experiences related to 'beach' and 'ice cream'. Your experiences shape you, even if you don't remember them after a while.

That also means that, eventually, as time passes, your real you will have diverged so much from your past you that you experience things completely differently. This might sometimes conflict with your memory storage, because your memory storage might be a very specific memory that tells you that you felt a certain way at a certain place or with a certain person, but your real you, your active neural network, has already changed to feel completely different about that place or person. Memories lie, but your personality is exactly what is you; it's unable to lie. Unless you're lying to yourself and pretending you live inside your memories.

Time only moves forward. You can't ever have two first times. But that's fine. You can have a first second time. And a first third time. And a first fourth.. By time's very definition anything that hasn't happened yet will be completely new. Your mind might be better able to predict what's going to happen, based on all your previous experiences that you used to train your neural network with, but in the end the next thing will always be completely new, and you'll never know with completely certainty what's going to happen next.

That is an extremely exciting thought.

Posted in Spirit of Japan 3 , Thoughts


Well, that was a short cycle, but it took forever. I managed to stay somewhat dry by taking shelter every time the rain got stronger, and then waited until it had stopped or gotten less. It took about 3-4 shelter stops to get halfway, and then I got to a better bit of mountain where the rain didn't just linger, and I managed to stay dry right until near the end. As it turns out my final destination today was exactly where the rain clouds were, as they were blocked by the surrounding mountains. It wasn't too bad though, no harsh downpours, just soft sprinkles.


Yesterday evening I told myself that I'd decide later whether to make the descent to Atsugi or not, but after checking the weather I did eventually decide to book the cheapest accommodation I could find near Yamanakako. It was the perfect location, too, and since it was on in a fairly touristy destination I expected my hotel to be fairly standard. I knew it was a ryokan, a Japanese inn, but I didn't expect there to be nobody there when I arrived.

Eventually a very old lady showed up, followed by an almost-as-old lady who I can only assume is her daughter. I had gotten there quite early, and they had just returned from a grave visit, which is a thing Japanese people do to mourn those that have passed away. That sure made me feel awkward...

They invited me in, and apparently the room wasn't ready and the toilet was broken, so they invited me in for tea first. They also gave me some really nice omiyage that tasted really good. I chatted with them a bit, told them where I was cycling from and to, etcetera. As I was talking with the younger lady the older lady was  on the phone talking to other hotels, and I distinctly got the impression that they were trying to put me up somewhere else, but the local accent was so thick that I found the conversation hard to follow. I asked about it and they said everything's fine, so I guess I must have misunderstood.

The room I'm in is a typical tatami room, slightly run-down for ryokan standards, but otherwise very pleasant. The view of the lake is fantastic, although right now the cloud coverage is so thick it pretty much touches the water. Tomorrow should be great though. I had a shower in the owner's house's shower room, since apparently the hotel's shared showers were not turned on or not clean or something. They really were not prepared to have a guest today, it seems. I like that. It's quirky. It's warm, dry and there's a conbini nearby. Way better than camping on a rainy day like this.


I have to admit I severely underestimated today. I guess I thought it would be a casual slow cycle to the next lake, but this lake is about 150 meters higher than the one I came from, so I had to climb a fair bit. For some reason, probably because I haven't cycled with luggage for a few days now, I've lost my cycling rhythm. I ended up doing way too high cadences uphill and just nearly ran out of breath a few times. I was also frustrated at climbing in the rain - since I was dressed for the rain, climbing just made me sweat like crazy in my windcoat, and I couldn't take it off either because then I'd get soaked by the rain.


That said, cycling with luggage on felt really good. The bike felt stable again, and I could feel that my legs are still used to the effort needed to make the heavy bike move. If I hadn't taken camping equipment I could easily have gotten away with just two panniers, but that just fucks up the entire balance of the bike if the front isn't loaded and the back's really heavy. Much better to have four panniers only partially loaded.

Tomorrow there's still about a 100 meter climb. After that it's downhill almost all the way back to Atsugi. I'm really looking forward to taking photos along the way. I want to find some of the spots I've been to on those incredibly memorable first and second day of my first solo trip. It's still a good 70 kilometers back to Atsugi. But I've got time. It's not like I have anything better to do :)

Posted in Spirit of Japan 3

The rain is back, so I'm not

It was raining all day on Monday. Yesterday cleared up a bit but got worse again in the evening, and this morning it's not looking brilliant. I had been planning to cycle to Atsugi today but decided to delay it for one more day. It would probably have been okay today, but the downhill's pretty steep in some bits, so I'd rather not do that with rain. Besides, I'm in no hurry.

I had been planning to cycle up to Mount Fuji's fifth station, at about 2200m altitude. It would have been a tough climb, at least 1400m altitude gain, and a scary, jittery downhill, since I wouldn't be carrying all my luggage to the top. The bike is so much more stable with the luggage, I'm kind of starting to like it. As I found out yesterday while cycling without luggage, my speed is not that much different with or without. And even without luggage a steep hill will still kill me, so meh. Anyway, I ended up not going up the mountain because the weather was still occasionally rainy and a huge overcast hung over Mount Fuji making it impossible to see the top. I think I could have done it physically, but I wouldn't have had much fun if there's nothing to see up there and if I have to worry about rain all day. Perhaps another time.

Instead, what I did was to cycle around the lakes a bit more. First Kawaguchiko, then Saiko. It still amazes me how many tourists come here. There's just a non-stop flow of tour buses. The tourists all go to pre-set 'designated scenic spots' and then don't wander more than 100 meters from there, getting their glory shot so they can brag about it on Facebook. I was very happy cycling around the lakes and finding the more quiet spots where I could sit down and enjoy the view in silence. I realize that I'm also a tourist and am part of the problem, but still, there are ways to go about tourism that are just less annoying than others. It's mostly a scalability problem, though. If you fill a tourist attraction up to capacity, which is inevitable for a place like this, right next to the biggest urban area in the world, it can't help but diminish the value. Quantity over quality, I guess.

Later today I'll be cycling over to Lake Yamanaka in what will probably be a rain ride. It's not too far, but far enough for me to get completely soaked if the weather doesn't like me. Since it's not far it's not a problem for me to leave at any time, so I'm delaying as much possible right now. The past few days have been a lot rainier than I would have wanted, but such is life.

Posted in Spirit of Japan 3



I made it! I managed to climb up to the Fuji five lakes area yesterday, and according to the cyclocomp it wasn't even close to the hardest day of the trip. That's likely because the total distance and time weren't as high as other days. If I had continued my ascent for a full day it would have been quite insane.

My ankle hurt yesterday morning, and the evening before. Cycling's always fine, but as soon as I start walking it starts popping and making funny sounds, and I end up walking with a slight limp to not put too much stress on it. It's happened a few times during this trip, but yesterday's was particularly bad. Something that's also happened a few times, including yesterday, is that as soon as I get on my bike and rotate the pedals a few times, my ankle hurts once, cracks once and is then perfectly fine for the entire rest of the day. It feels great right now. Strange.


The morning started out fantastic, with a blue sky, not a lot of traffic and a great view of Mount Fuji in the distance, still hidden behind the mountain range that separates Kofu from the five lakes area. I stocked up on drinks and breads at the conbini and set off to do the cycle.

Before yesterday I had been worried quite a bit about the climb, because the only other time I ever climbed up to the five lakes area it physically drained all my energy to the point where I literally couldn't go on and had to sit to regain my strength.

That was a long time ago, and right at the start of the trip, which is the weakest point. I've gotten better since then and my trip is nearing the end, so I'm used to climbing now. Still, I spent quite a bit of time researching which route to take and what kind of challenges I would face. I came across one blogpost of a guy who had tried to take part of the route I was taking, but turned back because of a tunnel. I had already found a better route around that tunnel, so that didn't bother me much. Plus, you can't really do any serious cycling in Japan if you're afraid of tunnels. It's just inevitable that you'll have to go through some tunnels at some point during your trip. Best to just suck it up, get comfortable and claim the road as your own. It's up to cars to deal with you as best they can, but if a tunnel is the only way to get from A to B then you and your bicycle are perfectly in your right to take that road. (Even though it's dark, narrow, cold, windy and scary..)

That said, if there is another way that doesn't involve a tunnel, I would absolutely take that instead. Even if the climb is a bit tougher. The more indirect the way is, the less traffic, and it was exactly like that for the first leg of my trip yesterday. The road I had chosen took me through a mountain pass following a river upwards. I had hoped to do most of the climbing on this nice and quiet road, but no such luck. When the quiet road rejoined the main road at the end of the tunnel I avoided, I had only climbed 200 meters, with 500 meters still to go. That's definitely within my doable range though, so I was quite happy with that.



That happiness didn't last long because the main road got damn steep soon after I rejoined it. A near-constant 8% incline leading up to the one tunnel I couldn't avoid. Not impossible, just very, very energy-intensive. I knew I didn't have to go too far yesterday so I took my time and took breaks along the way, taking photos. I just can't pace myself when climbing a hill. I either have to give it 100% and go at whatever speed that lets me go, or I just go slower than that but still feel like I use the same amount of energy. My compromise of pushing at full power with breaks in-between seems to be working well enough for me.


Whenever I climb a hill these days I'm reminded of this article I read about storing electricity by pushing heavy train carriages up a hill. When you want to get the energy out, just roll the carriages downhill again and capture the energy from friction using dynamos. Every time I climb I'm storing a buttload of energy from my carrying all my luggage to the top of a hill. Given that the five lakes area is at around 900 meters altitude, I've got a fair bit of energy stored and ready to release when I go down to the Tokyo area again.

There wasn't much traffic today so the tunnel at the end of the climb wasn't too bad. It sloped down in the end and I rolled down a gentle downhill right into view of the first lake, and moments later a beautiful gigantic Mount Fuji appeared into view. Woohoo!


Then I saw something strange, and I still don't know what it was. I was cycling along the road, with a steep cliff on my immediate left side, with some small bushes and foliage in-between, but maybe only about a meter between the road and the cliff. I spotted something moving along the cliffside maybe 50 meters away. It was some kind of animal.

It was almost the same color as the cliff, with brownish-grey fur. I've seen plenty of monkeys around roads in Japan so I assumed this was also a monkey, so I slowed down a bit and got ready to take my camera out. When I got closer I realized that this thing was kind of big for a monkey. It kept facing away from me, seemingly wanting to get up the cliff but not being able to. It didn't make any sound.

This was right at the lakeside, and on the other side of the road, a few hundred meters back, there was a parking lot with a bunch of cars, and a few people fishing. So when I realized that the thing was kind of too big to be a monkey I assumed that maybe it's a dog, belonging to one of the fishermen. But even when I got really close it still didn't seem very dog-like. And anyway, Japanese love tiny dogs, not big ones.

Then, as I was about to pass it, or stop to take a photo, as I was planning to do, it occured to me that it might be a bear cub. That sudden realization came as a surprise to me and I immediately sped up again to get past it as quickly as I could. As I passed it I seem to recall seeing something of a 'snout', and it somehow reminded me of a hyena, which would be an extremely unlikely thing to see in Japan.

I still don't know what it was. Likely not a hyena. A bear cub seems unlikely because it was in an area very close to humans. A dog could be possible but then I didn't see any of the fishermen go looking for it, and it was well away from anything. So I guess the most likely explanation is a large monkey. I guess I'll never know.

Although I was back in the five lakes area I didn't quite feel like being on 'home territory' until I reached the Fugaku lava cave in the forest on the way to lake Kawaguchi, so that's where I headed. On the way I passed a massive traffic jam of sad Japanese people all going the other way. Yup, I'm back in tourist town. But it felt good to be back in familiar territory.

I had to climb a bit more to reach the lava cave entrance. I was so excited I pushed myself a bit much and was quite out of breath when I reached it. I parked my bike smack at the entrance of a busy forest path and sat down on a bench, surrounded by random white people and tour buses full of Chinese tourists. Yup, I am definitely back in tourist town. But I didn't care. I made it.


After a short break I cycled leisurely towards lake Saiko and followed its southern road towards lake Kawaguchi. Saiko lake was fairly quiet and peaceful. I quite like it. When I went through the tunnel to Kawaguchi lake I had to descend quite a bit, something I had forgotten about, and I was soon surrounded by tourists again, this time on bicycles. Kawaguchi area is mad touristy. The word that comes to mind when I want to describe this is 'pompous'. I can't say I like that.


Crowded, touristy places have never been very high on my list of places I would like to be at, but it's gotten more extreme over the years. I just don't see the point of, for example, visiting a really famous temple that's utterly crowded with tourists where you're hardly able to move, versus going to a slightly lesser-known temple in the middle of nowhere that's still pristine and quiet. Or, another example, waiting in line for half an hour to enter a famous restaurant when another restaurant that's 95% as good is completely empty right next to it. I think people underestimate the value of not being surrounded by people. Also, when a place becomes a tourist attraction, it becomes a tourist attraction. That famous temple is no longer a famous temple, it's a famous tourist attraction. And that's just shit.

I had lunch in a lakeside park in a remarkably quiet spot, just relaxing and enjoying the scenery and feeling of accomplishment. After lunch I took some time to give my bike some well-deserved maintenance. I replaced the rear brake blocks, tightened the front brakes and cleaned both rims. I had been intending to replace the front brake blocks as well, but decided to try just the rear ones first as sort of a trial run. If I somehow mess it up then it's better if the rear brakes fail than the front brakes. I also cleaned and greased up the chain and sprockets, which had gotten nastily dirty. Afterwards I cycled over to the hotel I pre-booked, and that's where I'm writing this from now.

Sadly the weather has caught up with me. I had planned some interesting expeditions while I'm in the five lakes area, but it's expected to rain for the next three days. Looking at the grey sky and impending rain I didn't feel like doing anything today, so I took a break day. It'll give me time to do some backups, some laundry and to give my body some rest. The weather report hasn't been very reliable when it comes to predicting weather a few days from now so I'm hoping there's a chance it'll clear up tomorrow.


There's still some challenges ahead. I need to get down to the Tokyo area, which is a 900 meter downhill that I hope my brakes can take. Then there's the final cycle day to get to Haneda airport. I'll have to bag the bike and get it checked in at the airport after cycling there, but I think I can manage. I've got some time now to explore, to do things without being weighed down by the luggage. Now that all the mandatory luggage-hauling is over I suddenly remembered that the reason I booked this trip was to lose weight. So I can't just sit on my ass and call it quits now. I'll have to do some active things while I'm here. It's not over yet :)


Posted in Spirit of Japan 3


It's now 2PM and it's nice and warm in Kofu. I'm sitting in a Tully's coffee getting unnecessarily frustrated by the impossibly slow internet. Let me start out by ranting about that a bit. Why can't people get wifi right?

Japan especially sucks when it comes to wifi. Many business hotels still supply a lan cable in each hotel room, and to be honest I much prefer that because with wifi you just never know if it's going to work. Yesterday I had a hotel that only had wifi and no lan cable, and for some mysterious reason it only worked in the lobby and not in the room. I'm guessing the router on my floor was messed up, but try telling that to staff whose main task is not to provide you with internet. I did not bother and just sat in the lobby.

No internet is without a doubt a million times better than slow internet. When I know I have the option of having internet I start to depend on it. For example, sometimes I see a 7-11 or Familymart conbini popping up and then I know there's about a 50% chance that they'll have working wifi. I don't even bother with other conbinis any more, they never have working internet. But it's so incredibly frustrating when all you want to do is quickly check the weather, do a google map search or book a hotel, and the internet's just too damn slow, or won't let you sign in. FRUSTRATION.

There's supposedly free wifi almost everywhere for visitors to Japan, where they let you log in with your mobile phone number. But in order to make that work you first need to call a special number to receive a login code. I have never ever managed to connect to that number, or any of its alternatives. I don't know whoever was in charge of building that system, but user testing certainly didn't come into it. FRUSTRATION.

I know I'm getting unreasonably frustrated over this. All I have to do is set everything to airplane mode and not worry about a thing. I think perhaps the cause of my mood is that things have become a routine, and that things are coming to an end. I've got two more days of progress-/luggage-cycling left until I reach Atsugi, which I can't help but consider my obvious trip endpoint. I considered dragging it out by making a detour or having more break days along the way, but in my mind that somehow diminishes the trip. When it ends, it ends. I just have to accept that.

Something that still blows my mind is that more time has passed since I left Atsugi, than the total time I spent in Japan. It's been 6 years since I lived here, and I only lived here less than 5 years. Time will always be the number one thing that interests me in my life.

This morning started out very grey and mildly rainy. The way the weather is like at a place really affects how I think about a place. As such, I didn't get a very good impression of Lake Suwa. Despite me saying that I'm falling into a routine, the morning started out very un-routine-like, with a hotel breakfast that was included. And this time I remembered that my hotel had free breakfast, so I partook. Then I set off onto yet another climb, this time on the way to Kofu.


The climb turned out to be very manageable. The inclines were never very steep and the area stayed populated and rural rather than narrow mountain pass like. It wasn't too much of a climb either, maybe 300 meters max. When I reached the top the road did go down steeply for quite a while. Then it changed to a pleasant downhill slope that carried me all the way to Kofu without using up too much effort. I arrived before lunch, found a Sukiya and then lazed about in the local castle gardens and watched a woman play with her dog. For some reason no one else was there even though it was a beautiful place. It felt really peaceful.


I knew I'd be too early to check in to my hotel, but I went anyway and dropped off my luggage, then found a nearby coffee shop to spend time in. There is real value in sitting somewhere different and just thinking.. and writing. It's something I want to continue doing when I get back to London.

Speaking of London.. today, while I was cycling along a quite busy narrow road, completely comfortable and listening to music, my mind wandered off into random things, and somehow ended up at post-trip worries. My mind's decided that the end is nigh so I might as well start thinking about post-trip actions. I don't want to.. but my mind does. I wish I could control it better. I guess sometimes it's best to just let it wander.

An odd thing I've noticed about myself is how easily my mind wanders after three weeks of cycling. I used to always want to be busy with something, but now I'm just content staring out blankly towards a lake or a mountain for hours on end. That kind of mindset just comes naturally when you're traveling alone, I guess. I enjoy being in this state, but I know I will lose it again when work life starts up again. It can't be helped. There is no possibly way to keep this state of mind and still get work done. I've tried many times and did not succeed. But I also know that I can reach this state of mind any time I want. All I need is a few weeks holiday and a cycling trip :)

Who remembers Fallout 4? Or Skyrim? Or any other RPG with an open world and a million quests? Cycling trips are very much like that. You've got a main quest to fulfill, which is getting to your destination and not missing your flight, but while you're doing that you can make up your own side quests, and sometimes a random stranger comes along and gives you a quest, or helps you with yours. For those of you who haven't played any of those games, the very first time you play a new game like that and discover the world and all of its possibilities, that moment is a magical moment that will not come along often.

Cycling trips are very much a journey of discovery. For my very first trip I did not know anything and kind of went in haphazardly, with a friend to share the experience. Neither of us had expected it would be that difficult, or that amazing, and it was a magical moment to discover the nature of cycling trips. For my first solo cycling trip I had set myself some mad goals right from the get-go, but already I was more aware of the kind of challenges I would face (even though I underestimated them). I genuinely did not know if what I wanted to do was possible. Geographically. Physically. It was all new.

This is my eight big trip. I've done some pretty crazy things. I know the things that are possible. In fact, I can't think of many things that are impossible really. Anything a road bike can do, a touring bike can too. I suspect that anything a mountain bike can do, a well-prepared touring bike can do too, but I haven't ventured into that area yet. What used to be potentially impossible to me is now just difficult. The world has been explored, I've leveled up, done all the side quests. It could be time to try out a new game.. or I could do it all over again somewhere else, or with someone else, or in a different style. A lot of things are possible with experience.

When I reached Kofu the sun had come out and I could see Mount Fuji on the horizon. That's the sign that I'm getting very close to home now. Tomorrow is sunny too, so I will challenge myself with what could be the most difficult day of the trip: the climb into the Fuji five lakes area. It's not very long-distance, but the climb could be severe. I need to prepare for the worst. But it will be the final challenge. It's all downhill from there, literally.


Posted in Spirit of Japan 3

Down and then up and then up and then up...

Because camping I woke up early. I always end up going to sleep early when camping because it's just so cold outside, so I tend to wake up early too. I had left a bit of tent flap open so luckily did not have any issues with tent moisture today. After a little packing I was on my way to Matsumoto.


Matsumoto is downhill! It was a very gently constant 1-2% downhill, which made for an easy cycle. The road I had chosen wasn't too wide and there was a fair bit of traffic, but it didn't bother me much. Not after yesterday. Those tunnels really put me on edge, but they also put everything else in perspective. I am able to relax more now.

Due to my early start and the downhill road I actually arrived in Matsumoto at 9:30AM. Can't have that! I was planning to have an easy day, but that's just a bit too easy. I used the station wifi to check out the route towards lake Suwa and booked myself a cheap hotel there. It was a good 35 kilometers away, but I have the whole day, so why not.

I don't regret that decision, especially because I had planned to do Matsumoto - Kofu in one leg, but damn that was tough. I had chosen a fairly direct route via a smaller road, which was fine while I was in a suburban area, but the road eventually changed into a small side road parallel to the big highway, and that's where the trouble began.

The big highway had a steady incline up to the mountain pass that connects the Matsumoto area with the lake Suwa area. The side road however, did not. It would go up extremely steeply to connect to a bridge over the highway, then go down extremely steeply again to a normal height. So instead of suffering normally on an 8%-ish incline, I did a 15% uphill, then a ±5% downhill, then a 15% uphill again. And again. And again. I was completely exhausted by the time I actually reached the mountain pass.

Since I had climbed that much already to even reach the mountain pass I was hoping that it would just go down again to connect with the lake area. After every hill, every corner, I hoped to see the end of the 'slow traffic' line that signifies a steep uphill road, and after every hill and every corner I was wrong. It was only at the very end of the mountain pass, when I was already able to see the lake, that the road started to go down again. According to the stats I've climbed 600 meters less than yesterday, but it felt a lot worse. At least yesterday's road was gradual and predictable.


It had been mildly cloudy all day but when I finally entered the lake Suwa area it really got gray. The cycling path around the lake was utter crap. It was full of bumps and side roads and steep edges. Definitely not the way you should design a cycle path. The dark clouds soon turned into rain just before I found my hotel. Hopefully it'll be better tomorrow.

Posted in Spirit of Japan 3

The climb to Lake Kizaki

It's been quite a day. Everything went exactly as planned, I guess, since the suffering and the long uphill road with all the tunnels was part of the plan. Yesterday was a day where I could almost get away with zero effort and still get to where I wanted to go, but today I had to go all out. You can't half-ass a hill. Sometimes I plan out a route the evening before, and I tell myself 'I should be able to do at least this speed on this incline'. But the next day, after an hour of climbing, I'm just doing whatever my body is capable of. So tired.


I started out early and left Itoigawa to turn onto the long road leading to Matsumoto around 7:30AM. I had expected to have to climb immediately but the road went through a nice valley for about 10 kilometers before the steepness began. And the tunnels. I knew they were coming because I had scouted out the route, but tunnels are just never ever fun. They're cold, dangerous and noisy. I had my blinkenlights on all the time, and later switched to a coat, because despite the uphill effort I still got cold. My early start paid off though. Until 9AM I hardly saw any cars, and the first tunnels were actually quiet and easy to cycle. Also, I saw wild monkeys near a tunnel entrance! Much nice.


That changed as I approached Hakuba. There were several really long mildly-uphill tunnels that were pretty tiring, and by that time traffic was in full swing. It still wasn't too busy thanks to golden week and probably because not many people start from Itoigawa to get to Matsumoto, but there was a fairly constant stream cars going past me now. One tunnel was 2 kilometers long, and when it was over you could already see the start of the next tunnel. Yesterday I had fun slacking off in the wind, taking side roads, enjoying the fact that there was no traffic, but today I really had to push for it. There's only one road that goes to Matsumoto. If I want to go there that's my only choice. (Well, that, or the /other/ road to Matsumoto that's even longer and more difficult.)


When the tunnel stage ended I was getting closer to Hakuba, and the climb got less steep. That's when the wind got its revenge on me for yesterday. It wasn't quite as strong as yesterday, but much more unpredictable. I don't know what's going on in Hakuba, but it felt as if winds from several directions were all merging and causing chaos right where I was cycling. It was still uphill, so I wasn't going too fast to begin with, but with every sudden gust of wind I slowed down to a crawl. One of them nearly blew me off my bike when I was standing still to take a photo. The view of the mountains west of Hakuba was impressive, with rain clouds just hanging against them, unmoving. Some raindrops came my way but not many. I was heading towards the blue blue sky.


The climbing never really got difficult again after Hakuba, but the winds didn't let up until much later. My goal today was to reach Lake Kizaki, mainly because it's near in the middle between Itoigawa and Matsumoto, but also because of yet another mini anime pilgrimmage. Lake Kizaki is apparently the inspiration for an anime called Onegai Twins, an anime that I watched a long long time ago and wouldn't really recommend to anyone, but hey, why not right? Kasumi disappointed, Lake Kizaki did not. It's beautiful. And rural, and not too busy.


I went to the campsite I had planned to go, half expecting to be disappointed because it might be full, annoyingly crowded or expensive. It was none of those things! It only cost me 1300 yen to stay the night, and they let me camp anywhere I liked, so I chose a spot right next to the lake with a beautiful view. As I'm writing this the one noisy group of people has disappeared and only a few people with smaller tents remain. I still have not ever seen anyone else with an orange tent. After I set my tent up I went for a cycle around the lake without luggage, taking a bunch of photos along the way. It felt great to not have to hurry and not have to push all the luggage around, but at the same time my legs did feel a bit tired from the morning climb.


After cycling around the lake I went back to the camp site and asked for a chair. They have chairs! I spent most of my time here sitting in the chair or walking around nearby, listening to music and taking photos. It feels really peaceful here. Every half hour or so a one or two-car train passes by the lake, passing by all the local train stations. There's exactly one boat on the lake, with two old men in it, fishing. One guy lay sleeping at the tip of the pier for hours, while some kids were playing with their fishnets on the pier next to it. It's all so wholesome.


In all truth, I am freezing my bloody ass off right now. I'm wearing 4 layers and I'm still cold. It's kinda hard to self-reflect and be all philosphical and shit if you're freezing cold. Oh well. I'm very happy with the down sleeping bag I bought a few years ago. It's amazingly warm. With my old sleeping bag I used to worry that I'd be too cold, but with the new one I know that that's just not possible. While I sit outside on this chair though, I freeze..

I'm really glad I came here and camped. I don't camp often, but when I do... it is kind of epic. I had a similar experience during the Hokkaido cycling trip, where I also didn't camp too often, and had some bad camping moments too, but right near the end I had a perfect camping day. That's what this feels like too. When camping is good, it's amazing. It's good to mix up the business hotels with other things once in a while. In moderation.

I remember reading an article about how one half of your brain is awake when you're sleeping in a new place. There's no way that that's the case when you're frequenting various Japanese business hotels. They're literally all the same. It's really all just one room in a parallel dimension that changes slightly every time you open the door.

Whenever I'm at a place like this I can't help but wonder how it is best appreciated. Is it by the travelers, seeking a place to sleep while they're going from A to B? Or is it for the people having social events? Or tourists, who go here by car, look around and then go home again? I also wondered, while looking at the awesome scenery, if I would be happier if I owned everything I could see, and then immediately thought 'no'. Owning is probably the opposite of freedom. Some ownership is required to not die and have a certain standard of life, but beyond that I think it only weighs you down. Buying things is fun. Owning things isn't. Coming back to who best appreciates a place like this camp site, maybe the people who own the least appreciate it the most? Something I will think about.


Matsumoto isn't too far now, and shouldn't be as tough of a climb as today was. I'm not entirely confident in this, but it seems that Matsumoto to Kofu may be a fair bit downhill. So the next climb that will be tougher than today will likely be the one that takes me to the Fuji five lakes area. Let's not think too much about that yet.

Posted in Spirit of Japan 3