The beginning of the end

Two of my favorite things to do at the end of a long day of cycling are: 1) finding the perfect camping spot and enjoying a warm onsen bath before going to sleep, and 2) boarding a ferry and relaxing while watching the sunset. Today I almost had both. Almost, because the onsen was closed already. But let's start at the beginning, which is the nice hostel I stayed at in Nagasaki.

The owners of the hostel were very nice people, and they served us a nice umeshu (plum alcohol) on the house each night, which provided a nice opportunity to talk with the other guests. Two days ago I met two Danish guys and a Polish guy, and we exchanged thoughts on which type of alcohol gets you the most drunk. Yesterday there was one Japanse guy on a motorcycle and an interesting guy from Taiwan, who was in Japan for a couple of months to travel, but seemed to be particulary interested in Dutch sights in Japan. When I asked him about that, he told me has working on translating some historical Taiwanese texts, which were written in Dutch, as the Dutch colonized Taiwan for a short period of time, several hundred years ago. Interesting job. He said he really wanted to visit Holland, so I told him to go to Huis Ten Bosch instead as it is prettier.

I didn't cycle in the morning because I went to a place that I will you about later (when I am more comfortable..) , so I started to cycle around 13:00 after having a fake pizza lunch. Japanese restaurants fail 99% of the time at making proper pizza, but I keep falling for it. Anyway, leaving Nagasaki I rode up a couple of large hills and found myself on the way to the Unzen national park. Despite all the warnings of the good old hostelkeeper I somehow ended up on the southern road (251), and not the northern one (57) that was supposed to be much easier. I realized fairly quickly that I took a wrong turn, but didn't want to climb back up a single hill to get back to the correct road. As a result I had to climb about 6 or 7 impossible hills instead. It was killing. But the view was beautiful.

Insert coin to play
My favorite drink

This drink is still frozen when you buy it. As it slowly thaws out you can begin to drink it. It stays cool for hours!

The road to Obama

After somehow ending up on a dike (I didn't know they had those in Japan) I managed to find my way to the ferry around sunset. While waiting for the ferry to arrive I checked google maps to find a nearby place to camp, and I found a beach less than 5 km's away from the ferry place. Lucky me, because the ferry arrived around 6PM and I didn't have a lot of time to search a camping place today.

Mai ferry
Exploring strange new worlds
Becoming cloudierst

My guide book told me there was also an onsen/public bath nearby, but it was already closed when I arrived. I asked an old man for directions to find the onsen, and he cycled with me for a bit and told me about the area. Somehow I learned a lot of Japanese today, in particular words related to volcanoes and the tide. The man, Yoshida-san, told me his motto: "health first, money second". He then proceeded to tell me about volcanic eruptions at the Unzen national park, and how it erupts every two hundred years and a lot of people die when that happens. He also told me about his trip by bicycle from Kumamoto to Kagoshima, which took three days. When I asked him how old he was when he did the cycling trip, he told me he did it four years ago :O meaning he was well over 60 years old. Incredible. I also realized how close I am to my goal. Even if I take the long way round and cycle to the southernmost point, it won't take more than a week. I need to start thinking about what to do after I reach 'the end'...

Super Genki Yoshida-san

He also showed me a great place to set up my tent, right underneath a lifeguard house, meaning I am protected from the rain which is expected to fall tonight. When I set up my tent about an hour ago everything was nice and peaceful: no wind, beautiful sunset, quite warm. Right now my tent is nearly collapsing in on itself because of the strong wind, and I had to get out to reinforce things a bit with some spare tent pegs. At least tonight shouldn't be too cold. I just hope that the weather report was wrong and there won't be any rain. In any case, thanks to Yoshida-san I found a comfortable place to sleep and I don't have to worry about people throwing me out, since in this place camping is allowed. A peaceful night awaits.

Good night

(Third favorite thing to do at the end of a long day of cycling: get a room in a business hotel and order pizza online. But that makes me feel really guilty cause it costs about 3 times my usual daily budget..)

Posted in Spirit of Japan , Uncategorized | Tagged ,

The road to Nagasaki

Since I'm not doing a lot today here's some photos of yesterday's ride from Sasebo to Nagasaki. It was a fairly 'normal' ride. Good scenery, a lot of hills, but quite doable.

Morning near Sasebo
Passed by Huis Ten Bosch on the way
Another hill
On top of a different hill
Nice bridge
Bridges everywhere
Back at sea level
Suddenly, a plane
And then I arrived in Nagasaki

Nagasaki is an interesting city. I like Nagasaki, perhaps because I've been here once before. It feels familiar. Somehow there's never a lot of people around, except for the shopping areas of course. It has a different feel from other Japanese cities. And the port area is just great to spend time in.

Nagasaki port
Shun-You and Show-Ho
Seaside park

The shape of the city is kind of L-shaped (or T-shaped), due to the surrounding mountains. It's like there's no real city center, but things are scattered throughout the city. Most big cities here are centered around the train station, but because there's less trains in Kyushu the train station is not as important as elsewhere in Japan, and there are less buildings/people/things around the station.

Dusk train
The station
Night in Nagasaki
Narrow streets
There used to be a bicycle shop here
Dark street near the hostel
Posted in Photography , Spirit of Japan , Uncategorized | Tagged

Meanwhile, in another parallel universe(!)

Holland has mountains, and all people have died from a horrible virus a couple of years ago, leaving behind an abandoned country!

Today I cycled to Nagasaki city. In the morning I passed by the Huis Ten Bosch Dutch theme park fairly early, and it was still closed. I took a couple of photos and moved on. I cycled for at least an hour towards the south when suddenly I saw this in the distance:

That's weird

More Dutch buildings? That's strange. The only Dutch-related area in Japan that I knew of was the Huis Ten Bosch theme park. I of course could not resist a little investigation. Finding the entrance alone was difficult enough as there were not a lot of signs, and I ended up climbing a hill with some farmland on top. Going down on the other side of the hill I suddenly found myself in an abandoned Dutch village.

Foliage overgrowth
More foliage

Then I noticed a sign:

"Holland Village"

and it all clicked into place. Yesterday at Huis Ten Bosch, while talking to the funny Dutch guy with all the strange bicycles, he told me he'd been doing his job for as long as HTB existed, and even before that at its predecessor, Holland Village! This place is the predecessor of Huis Ten Bosch and used to be a Dutch-themed theme park! Now it's completely abandoned and there's nobody there! I love exploring abandoned places, so suddenly finding an abandoned theme park at the side of the road is like discovering gold! I took my time and went around taking a lot of photos. I tried to find information on this place but couldn't find much more than this Japanese wiki page.

I like this
Abandoned escalators captivate me
"Escalators don't break. They just temporarily turn into stairs"

It's weird enough to find a Dutch village in Japan, it's even weirder to find it abandoned and looking like something from a post-apocalyptic movie.

Nobody home
Future City
Even this place was abandoned
Disaster struck

I then came across a tiny little storehouse.

Loeki de Leeuw

I'm not exactly sure when this park was abandoned. The foliage growth, escalators and signs made me think that it couldn't have been more than ten years ago. But this storehouse uses some logo's that I've only ever seen in old Holland when I was little, maybe twenty years ago. I really can't tell.

Morbid curiosity got the better of me, and I checked to see if the door was unlocked. It was. I slowly opened the door, and as I did so a medium-sized (that's very-large-sized for Dutch standards!) spider crawled away from me. When I entered I saw this:

Boo

The store was completely empty, except for two of these dolls, slightly mutilated. There was nothing on the shelves, which was too bad, because I was kind of hoping to find a souvenir thingie from 20 years ago. No such luck. In the middle of the store there was a staircase left unfolded that lead to the attic. Thinking "oh well", I climbed the stairs and peeked my head up into the attic, and then got the shit scared out of me by a gigantic spider.

GAAH

By Dutch standards, this spider is the size of a small moon. It was far enough away, but considering that I couldn't see anything as I was climbing the stairs, I consider myself lucky that it was far away and didn't jump on my head. o_0

Ghost town

Abandoning my quest for souvenirs I returned to my bicycle and found my way back to the main road. I'm very happy with today's find. You can find the rest of the pictures here on Picasa. Note that I used my S90 compact camera today, which does focus and expose properly, unlike my 50D+18-200mm.

I'm in Nagasaki now, at a park in the port area, sitting under a tree, relaxing. I'm taking a forced break tomorrow. Why this break is forced I will tell you the day after tomorrow, when I will hopefully have another nice story to tell :)

Bon appetit!

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Meanwhile, in a parallel universe..

Holland has mountains!

Today I took the day off and went to see one of the things on my must-see-while-in-Japan list: Huis Ten Bosch. It's a Dutch-themed theme park where a Dutch town is recreated in life-size. As a Dutch person it seemed ridiculous to me to have a theme park based on Holland, but after today I kind of understand it. Huis Ten Bosch is Holland, but then it isn't. It's like Disneyland, but without the fun. With that I mean that the atmosphere being created is very much that of a fairytale and everything looks clean and sweet and nice, but it lacks the attractions that Disneyland has. It's more of a place to stroll around and take photos. Everything is really beautiful, incredibly beautiful. Compared to the real Holland this place is at least three times as beautiful. Unreal. It's like they compressed Holland into a tiny little ball and then dropped it between some mountains.

Holland in a bottle

It's funny: in the center of the park bicycles are not allowed, yet you're allowed to smoke in cafe's. The exact opposite of Holland. It's amazing how clean they keep everything. At one point I saw a horse and wagon walking by. The wagon stopped, the driver got out, grabbed a bucket and held it under the horse, which then proceeded to pee. Now that's clean.

I also encountered a fellow Dutchman and had my first real-life Dutch conversation in months. The guy showed me around a bit and told me how he ended up in Japan. His hobby was to tinker with bicycles, and he had created various interesting-looking bicycles, including a recumbent bicycle (ligfiets) and a classic-looking one with a huge wheel that you had to climb onto to get in.

Mini Holland

I expected a lot of Japanese silliness and craziness, but it was a surprisingly normal place. Very theme-park-y, but not in an annoying way. I quite enjoyed myself and would go there again if I had a chance. Well, at least 5 years later, I guess.

Tante Annie

Click here to see the rest of the photos.

On a tech note, my DSLR is having some serious problems. The 50D+18-200mm combination has serious trouble focusing unless all the focus points have something to focus on, or else it keeps seeking. The automatic focus point selection is not working, I guess, cause it seems to always select the worst possible point to focus on, like a clear blue sky. It then fails to focus (of course) and keeps on seeking before giving up. I tried fixing this in the menu's but nothing I do seems to work. Another minor issue is that the light metering seems to suck no matter what setting I put it on. Today in particular I never seemed to get the right exposure. I tried switching to spot metering, center avg etc. but that didn't make a difference. Or maybe it did, but it only got worse. Most photos I've taken today are the result of 2 or 3 of the same shots taken with different exposure. Guh. Oh, and ever since I dropped my camera on the day that I started my trip the shutter button is kinda broken: I have to push it really hard to take a photo. Double guh.

Tomorrow I am cycling to Nagasaki! The place where it all began. Three years ago, a sad sad rv went to Nagasaki and climbed on his touring bicycle for the first time. He went on a crazy adventure and ended up on the beautiful island of Yoron with his buddy Kamil. And his life would never be the same again..

Posted in Photography , Spirit of Japan , Uncategorized | Tagged

Luxury, Efficiency and Beauty

To be perfectly honest this trip has not been the 'thinking experience' that I had hoped for. I haven't discovered anything new, just managed to fill in the gaps about things that I already knew or thought about in the past. I did have a chance to organize my thoughts, so I guess it's time to write some of this down before I forget it. It's not directly related to my trip or the question I sought out to answer at the end of the trip, but it's something that's always present in my thoughts, and as such a part of my trip and myself. I hope that this post makes sense to at least one other person..

People don't need luxury. Or in a slightly weakened phrasing: people don't need that much luxury. I've had this opinion since long before this trip, but now I've had the chance to prove it to myself. Having to carry everything you own is a great experience for anyone, and I recommend anyone to try it at least once, either walking or cycling. It makes you realize how much useless stuff you have, and you start to think how you can get rid of more of your stuff. Photography is one of my greatest hobbies, but during this trip I've realized very quickly that I have absolutely no need for my big DSLR camera and lenses. I haven't sent it home out of stubbornness, but if I ever do a trip like this again I will leave my DSLR at home. It's just weight. Discarding useless weight will make you feel lighter, both physically and mentally. It's one less thing to worry about.

In terms of possessions, there's a lot of stuff we can do without. I put my personal limit at internet. I need to have a netbook plus internet connection or at least internet at the place I'm staying at for the night. I'm calling this my personal limit because I would not feel comfortable being without internet for a long period of time. My limits in other areas are perhaps more extreme. I've gotten used to camping in the cold, and I don't mind at all to stay at a dormitory room without any privacy. Shared toilets and bathrooms are a common thing of budget traveling, and I'm perfectly comfortable with that, even on the long term. A little privacy is nice at times, but I don't really miss it any more. Even now I am typing this at a busy cafe, sitting outside in the sunshine. I'm not bound to any location, and I feel great about that. Having a home to return to is a luxury too?

Things I absolutely cannot do without are: plenty of sleep, plenty of good food and some way of distracting my mind. As for food, I don't need high quality food, but I do need a lot of it to feel happy. McDonalds is actually good enough for me to feel satisfied after a meal. Conbini food is borderline, sometimes good, sometimes not so. As for distracting my mind, I really need something to keep my mind moving, either a story, a movie, a game, or even music will do. Drowning myself in fiction is a requirement of my life that I cannot do without, as I've learned on this trip. Real life is just too... real to live in twenty-four hours a day seven days a week.

Modern society's luxury standards are very high. Take a business hotel, for example. Everything is extremely clean, and everything that could possibly get dirty is either washed or replaced before the next visitor. Let's say that such a place is 99% clean. A youth hostel, then, will give you a futon to sleep on that is perhaps replaced once every ten years. You get one clean sheet to sleep on and you use the blanket that other people used too (which is washed occasionally). Is this dirty? In my experience, no. I've stayed at a lot of youth hostels, and although the appearance was less squeaky clean than that of business hotels, youth hostels are by no means dirty. Old does not mean dirty! Even if youth hostels are 95% clean, I'm sure that people can accept a lot worse places without any discomfort. If they get rid of their preconceptions that everything should be just as clean as a modern-day hotel room, that is.

Why is this important? We already have a higher standard of luxury available to us, so why should we settle for less? The answer is: efficiency. People are consumers. 99% of people on this planet consume more than they produce, except perhaps in the case of shit. We use the word 'consumer' with no bad connotations at all when talking about people, but when talking about something else, for example electrical devices, a consumer is a bad thing. We don't want devices that consume a lot of electricity. The world does not want people that consume a lot of world.

Your one hour of fun may cost other people twenty man-hours of work! Is this justifiable? Most people say yes. A book I've recently half-read and blogged about occassionaly is of this opinion. The book is called The Four-hour Work Week, and talks about how to optimize your lifestyle to spend less time on your job and to have other people do your menial tasks for you, in exchange for money of course. Outsourcing tasks to people in India or China is becoming a more and more common topic these days. I think that, fundamentally, the idea of paying other people to do things that you don't want to do is wrong. It's even in the bible: things that you don't want to happen to yourself, don't do unto another (not exact quote). Modern society is largely built upon this principle of service, but if we had a choice then things would be different. They are different in fact, which is the reason why people don't outsource work to Europe or to the US: those people don't want to do it. We take advantage of people whose 'quality of life' is less than our own. We use them up until they've used our money to improve their society and then they can themselves outsource their work to other countries even poorer than them. But what happens when all countries have become rich and there's no place to outsource your work any more?

I'm getting sidetracked here, so let's return to the main point: having other people do things that you don't want to do is wrong. How to avoid that? Well, do less things that you don't like to do. Optimize your lifestyle. If you consume less, use less energy/food/trees/whatever there is less need to make other people work for you. Self-contain your life and don't rely on others. Instead of consuming worldly goods, produce enough to sustain yourself and be happy with that. The world still has a lot more natural resources than people, but that's changing. From an efficiency point of view, relying less on others is a good decision. Redundancy is robustness. The less you have to inconvenience other people, the less time and resources you consume.

A computer-related example: datacenters. Historically large companies worked with supercomputers that were much more powerful than consumer PCs. They cost a boatload of money to maintain and the failure of one such machine is a huge inconvenience. Then Google came along, and built their datacenters based on thousands of consumer PCs. If one such PC fails, no big deal, just swap in another one and it's business as usual. Efficiency by redundancy. Things are being centralized and ordered, and eventually a structured graph appears where the failure of one single node has no effect on the whole. Changing examples, think of chain restaurants like McDonalds, and how their food looks and tastes the same everywhere. It's an extreme example of the distribution of a single product over the entire world. It's extremely efficient.

But is it beautiful? Considering the McDonalds example, I guess most people would say no. Let me give you another example: Roads. I've cycled a lot recently, and I've seen a lot of roads. In urban areas the roads are engineered, efficient. They're flat, straight and boring. There's buildings at the side of the road that block the view and are ugly to look at. It is of course convenient/efficient to live near a big road so of course there's lots of buildings. Even if the road is lined with trees and is made to look pretty, it's still a flat, straight road in an ugly urban area. Leaving the city and going towards the mountains there's a different kind of road. This type of road is more messy, but still optimized by humans. The inclines are made to be less tough for cars and bicycles, the asphalt is smooth, and when the road passes between the mountains, the top of the mountains is blasted off or a tunnel is dug so that you don't have to climb to the top of the mountain. Nature is mostly preserved, but that's only because the cost of leveling the entire mountain is astronomical, and it would inefficient (money-wise) to do so.

The most beautiful roads though, are the mountain roads in the countryside. They've existed for hundreds of years, first as a walking path along the mountainside, eventually turning into a sandy road, and then asphalted. But that's where the development stopped. I cycled along a road yesterday that seemed horribly inefficient: it went left and right and up and down and there was not a single flat, straight section of road on the way. It was also one of the most beautiful roads I've ever seen. Surrounded by nature, limited by nothing, barely any people around. After all, who would drive on this horribly inefficient road if there's a long, flat, straight road that can take you to your destination faster and more comfortably? Well, I would, but I'm perhaps one of the few people in this country who's not on a schedule.

I like efficiency, but I also like beauty. When it comes to roads, 90% of the time I prefer to take the zigzaggy mountain road over the flat straight road. However, if I was a road engineer I'd probably want to 'fix' the mountain road and make it more efficient. Do we have to choose between beauty and efficiency, or can we have both? I'm not sure.

I believe that modern-day society offers too much luxury at a too high cost. We don't need all that luxury, and the world would be a better place if we had less, not more. I think we should take advantage of near-endless (digital) resources and try to use as few natural resources as possible. My ideal world is a world where efficiency is not important because everyone has plenty of time, and the creation of beauty costs nothing, not time, not energy. The only 'way out' that I see is to digitize the human brain and to shift our perspective to the digital world, where things are ruled by a different set of rules. I've dismissed the idea of my live having meaning in any possible way, unless I can somehow contribute to this ideal.

Posted in Spirit of Japan , Thoughts , Uncategorized

Sasebo

Sometimes Japan's smaller than I think. And sometimes I get lucky. Today I have once again proven that having no idea what I'm doing is the best way to travel.

Route 383. Trickssssyyy

After my previous blogpost I set out on route 383 towards the south, immediately slowed down by the steep uphills. This is a very tough island. The uphills never end! I cycled for 30-40 minutes only uphill, no end in sight. It wasn't very steep, but just enough to hurt every muscle in my body over an extended period of time.

Power cables are unavoidable in Japan

The road was poor. Narrow and full of bumps and cracks. The downhills were ok but too bumpy and dangerous to go really fast, which made me go even faster because I got frustrated with the road and wanted it to end. (The road, not my life). I probably went over some bumps a bit too fast, because my bicycle's been feeling a bit odd since that road. I can't quite locate any one particular component that's broken or bent, but somehow the balance feels off. At some points I thought that I had a flat tire and actually stopped to check once, but it was fine. I'm not sure what it is, but let's hope that it's gone tomorrow.

Despite the long mood-destroying uphills it was over before I knew it. The route was about 30-40 km's but somehow it all went by in a flash. I took 2 photos on the way, and those are the ones I posted here. I reached the south part of the island, located the ferry and went on my way. The ferry would take me to a place called Ainoura, about 10-15 kilometers from Sasebo, one of the bigger cities in this area. My plan was to cycle from Ainoura to the Sasebo area and find a place to sleep there.

Here is where the 'no idea what I'm doing' part comes into play. First of all, I was lucky to find a ferry line in operation at the south of the island, as I had not checked the ferry times at all. Second, it never even occurred to me that the ferry might only take passengers, not cars or bicycles. I realized this at the moment when a Japanese guy came towards the bench I was waiting on and told me the ferry was ready to board. I saw no ferry, all I saw was a tiny little passenger ship. I was expecting a huge bulky ship that you can drive your car onto. My bicycle barely fitted inside, and had trouble going up the boarding plank. Whoops.

Well, that was certainly lucky. Riding the ferry made me realize how awesome it is to be on the sea. I've always liked to be in the water, either by boat or swimming, and this ferry was kick-ass. Huge waves on the ocean yet this ship bumped over them really fast, I guess at about 40-50kph. Awesome.

Arriving at the port I squeezed my bicycle off the ferry and prepared for the 10km ride to Sasebo. Gloves, hat, route check, etc. I got on bicycle, rode about 50 meters and then had to stop in front of a traffic light with at the other side Sasebo train station. WTF? I think maybe I got on the wrong ferry. I never really asked anyone where the ferry was going because I thought there was only one, and both Google maps and my route book told me that the ferry goes to Ainoura. I'm really quite clueless as to how I ended up in Sasebo, but I'm not complaining. Three cheers for cluelessness. :D

Sasebo port

Finding accomodation was a breeze: I walked into the train station and asked the information-counter-woman to find me the cheapest hotel in town. She told me there was a ryokan just in front of the station. A ryokan is a 'Japanese hotel' according to my translator, but it's basically a youth hostel where you get your own room and don't talk to other people. Toilet and bathroom are shared.

Checking in to the ryokan is probably the worst I have ever been treated while in Japan. The obaasan (old woman. I would call her middle-aged, but no reason to be polite) didn't understand me at first when I asked if she had a room available tonight. I asked her twice in Japanese, got no response, then asked in English, and she answered me back in Japanese. She was very rude in the way of talking to me, and demanded the money upfront. Her attitude was so bad that I considered spending the extra money on a business hotel. This is really the closest I've ever gotten to walking away from a place. Anyway, she showed me to my room, asked me in Japanese in a horrible sarcastic voice: "Is this humble room good enough for you?". Having already paid, I decided to play nice and smiled at her and told her "Yes, it's great!". I think it's around this time that she caught on that I was not American, and she was nice to me ever since.

Sasebo is a port town, and the American navy presence in the city is annoyingly large, as I realized later while walking the streets. Besides the obvious American people wandering around there are more-than-usual steak restaurants and burger restaurants in this place. Avoiding those I went to a different restaurant and was promptly showed an English menu. They're definitely used to gaijins here. You can call me paranoid, but I think there's a connection between my being treated badly at a Japanese hotel, and an American base being present in the same city. That's my conclusion, feel free to draw your own. Maybe the old lady just had a bad day. There's still a lot of controversy about American bases in Japan. A hot discussion item these days is whether to move the American base on the Okinawa island to a different island. People on that island are protesting of course. But I've also heard older Japanese people saying that they tolerate the bases in Japan because Japan only has a self-defense force, and they need the Americans for protection. Sounds like mafia business to me. As far as I'm concerned all the American bases should disappear from Japan. It's a bad influence.

Speaking of influence (and otherwise unrelated to Americans), the convenience store sphere of influence has shifted once again. I remember way back in the Nagoya area all I saw was Circle K's, then in Hiroshima and Yamaguchi there were mostly Lawsons. The area I'm in now seems to have been conquered by Family Mart.

On a sun-related note, I'm developing a really weird sunburn on my left wrist that I finally figured out today. Despite applying factor 50 sunscreen every day the area below my watch developed a very strong, red tan. I applied the same sunscreen on my other wrist and it's evenly brown. The area above my watch (close to my hand) is also normally brown. I am theorizing that my big shiny watch is actually catching the sunlight and focusing it on the place below my watch, much like a magnifying glass. Very nasty. No more watch while cycling.

Good night
Posted in Cycling , Spirit of Japan , Uncategorized

Hirato

I'm in a place called Hirato, and it's full of Dutch things! This place used to be a big trading post, and the Dutch in particular visited this place a lot in the 1600s, even before Nagasaki's Dejima port became more popular. There's a lot of historical things to see here. I'm planning to travel south along the coastline of Hirato island. I'm about 80% sure that there's a ferry at the bottom. If not, I'll have to cycle back up again..

MOIST

I think I found the moistest place in Japan last night. When I woke up it wasn't just the inside of my tent that was moist, it was everything. My entire bicycle, side bags, everything. Next time I'm putting my electronics in the dry bag. It's a miracle my iPod survived..

Lumberrrrrr

There's a lot of heavy industry in this area, and route 204 is designed to destroy cyclists. It's extremely narrow, full of huge trucks and there's not a single flat section anywhere. It's always going uphill then downhill, uphill then downhill... Tiring, stressful and not many spectacular sights to see along the way, so I took some random pictures instead.

Himatsubushi: killing/wasting time
A hairy building and some garbage
The bridge to Hirato
My delicious lunch

The island looked horrible from this side: only hills! not a flat area to be found. Let's see in the afternoon how that goes..

I went to the town first to look around a bit. I visited a Christian church that was under restoration and could hardly be seen under all the scaffolding, and after that I cycled along a road and kept seeing Dutch things.

The Dutch bridge
The Dutch wall

Not to be confused with the Chinese wall, which is slightly bigger.

Near the Dutch wall I found a nice stone with inscription.

The Dutch inscription reads:

Adventurers of the great travels of discovery Your determination supports our present That you may rest in peace A piece of Holland for all eternity
Respect for my ancestors, who came all the way to Japan at a time when there were no convenience stores.

Posted in Photography , Spirit of Japan , Uncategorized | Tagged ,

The promised land

I've finally arrived in the Kyushu that I remember! Kyushu is great. It has all of the good things of Japan, but none of the bullshit. It's got convenience stores, vending machines, beautiful natural sights, and kinder people than elsewhere in Japan. But it's not overpopulated, and there's not that much traffic. Excellent. I only wish it was 5 degrees warmer....

Here's some photos of today. I really went to all kinds of places: seaside, mountain, forest. The whole route was beautiful.

This is where the mother nearly got run over
Scenery alongside route 202
Lots of blue today
And some countryside
Great journey
First time forest!
Approaching the town of Karatsu

I went into the center of Karatsu to eat some lunch, but I got annoyed with myself because I couldn't pick out a restaurant. Weird! Every time I saw one I kept on cycling, all the while thinking that I should have stopped. Just couldn't control myself somehow. In the end I passed through the entire center of Karatsu and ended up at the next train station at a tiny restaurant, and had the best cooked fish I've tasted on this trip so far. I forgot the name though, as it was called "today's menu".

As I was leaving a lady who just arrived asked me about my trip. We talked a bit, and she gave me a good luck charm ^^.

Lucky neko

Leaving the restaurant I started cycling again, changing from the coastal route 202 to route 33 which cuts across the mountains and saves me about 50 kilometers of cycling around the mountain area. The road was tough, but not too long, and the scenery was of course great. I'm really running out of words to describe the things I see..

Route 33

The road tricked me a bit, because I cycled all the way to the top, enjoyed a very nice downhill, and then had to climb all the way to the top again! Seems there's a valley in the middle, so I had to climb the hills twice.

The second downhill

New speed record: 56.1 kph :D

And back at the seaside again

I cycled a bit further until I came to a large bridge leading to a fairly large island called Fukushima. It would be a dead end, but I went there anyway, having already done 85km's, thinking I could find a very nice tenting place on the island.

Wonderful area

I went around for about an hour and found one camping place where they charged me 1500 yen to stay. I would have accepted, but it was only 3PM and I thought I could find something better. I'm starting to enjoy the search for tenting places actually. Much like women enjoy shopping for shoes, I enjoy shopping for camping places.

In the end the island kinda sucked though, and I decided to go back to the Kyushu main island and cycle onward. I didn't go far when I discovered this place:

An abandoned bus!
Abandoned bus parking lot

Those who know me know that Into the Wild is one of my favorite movies, and suddenly remembering the movie when I saw the old bus, I strongly considered camping here tonight. I had basically decided on this place already when I went out to find a vending machine to get a drink. I found one at a nearby garage, and I figured I might as well ask if they knew a good place to put up a tent. A mechanic told me there was a beach not too far away in the middle of nowhere, and there's usually no people around. I decided to go there, and didn't go back.

Near my 'final resting place'

I also came across this specimen:

This is where bad bicycles go when they die

Today was very nice! As I am typing this I'm looking out towards the bridge in the second-to-last photo, and my hands are getting quite cold! The wind is chilly. I'd better dress warm tonight.

Tomorrow I'm continuing on my journey towards Hirado island. I'm not quite sure how to cross over actually. There seems to be a bridge, but that might be a toll road only for cars. I guess when I get there I'll ask some people and things will work out.

Good night!

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Fukuoka sucks

I thought I'd come right out and say it. I'm sure Fukuoka has its own special unique combination of ingredients that only occur in Fukuoka, but each of those ingredients can be found in pretty much any Japanese city. They all contain the same things, just the balance is different. Fukuoka really made me appreciate being in places that are not Fukuoka. I really need to avoid cities from now on. They're terrible places to cycle in. Even 10 kilometers before reaching the city the scenery around you changes to boring suburbs. Then, when you reach the center you're cut off by those horrible annoying buses that overtake you and then cut you off to stop at the next bus stop, then proceed to do the same thing again 50 meters later. Oh, and bicycle commuters are terrible too. They're like a swarm of bees surrounding you. Actually no, a swarm of bees is more orderly and less dangerous than a swarm of bicycle commuters. Guh. No more cities.

After 15 very boring kilometers I finally reached the outskirts of the city. I was waiting to cross the road when a mother approached on a bicycle, carrying her child on a bicycle seat in the back. The child's head fell off and the mother couldn't reach it, so I reached out and picked it up for her. She thanked me and went on. I was still waiting to cross the road when I suddenly heard a car honk loudly, followed by the mother screaming. She almost got hit by a car! I went back to check but it seemed that everything was ok somehow. Scary moment though.

Perhaps it's my annoyance at cycling through Fukuoka, or perhaps the road that I rode just now was just that great, but I feel great. I've never felt so free as today, cycling route 202 towards a city called Karatsu. The road zigzags along the coastline, with a beautiful blue ocean and tiny mountain-like islands on the right-hand side, and a beautiful countryside landscape with rice fields close by and tall mountains far away on the left-hand side. The sun is shining, the temperate is a bit chilly but good for cycling, and I'm listening to relaxing music as I'm cycling towards my randomly chosen destination. This is the true feeling of this trip. I am enjoying myself.

(I'll post some photos later after deciding where to stay tonight!)

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Inspiration

Fukuoka city was closer than expected, and I arrived there around 11:30 in the morning. I considered cycling further, but I really had no route prepared yet. I cycled around a bit and found a youth hostel, parked my bicycle there and went out into the city. Just finished lunch, about to go out and walk around.

I found out the real reason why I got lost two days ago: my compass is not working! It's always pointing south-west... I gave it a few slaps and twisted it around a bit and it seems to work again, but I still don't feel very confident in following it.. I've got a spare one but the compassbell is just so useful.. Let's see if it still works tomorrow.

Today started out very dark and slightly rainy. I did my best to pace myself today, not going too fast, not pushing too hard on the uphills, as that's making me feel bad in the afternoon. Pacing myself felt great, and I had sort of a revelation just as the sky cleared up and the sun peeked through. The choice between going back to Holland or staying in Japan is still on my mind. I've been having a hard time recently trying to connect the 'big life-changing decision' to little me on a bicycle in Kyushu right now. The two concepts just didn't seem to connect. Today though, I suddenly saw a clear path through all my obstacles and I had a vision of exactly how I can make things work out. I'm not saying that I made my choice, but I saw exactly how I could make things work out if I did choose one particular option. It sounds a bit vague, but I don't want to make any final choice until the end of this trip. There's still hundreds of kilometers ahead of me that could still make me change my mind. But I feel more confident now that I've seen a potential path for myself that I would be more than happy to cycle on. It's like a game of chess: I'm in the middle of the game now, and I've finally seen a glimpse of the endgame. I'm winning, of course :D

On a physical note, my superpowers are gone. Maybe it's cause I'm cycling less km-per-day lately, or because the roads are more flat, but I'm running out of breath again. Perhaps I'm overestimating myself just because I was able to climb a few hills in the past.. Today I've been following route 3 for about 50-60 kilometers, and my mind tended to fast-forward to Fukuoka. I kept thinking that I was already there, ready to stop cycling at any moment, then tiring myself out because there was always 'one last hill'. This lasted for a good 20 kilometers before I finally got used to the flow of the road, and from there on I cycled on like I always do. It's almost like starting from scratch again: I have to get used to trusting my bicycle, my muscles, my compass, all over again.

Posted in Spirit of Japan , Uncategorized