Convenience

I'm in a McDonalds hiding from the rain! I used to hate times like these when I first started my trip, but now that the end of my stay in Japan is approaching I find myself treasuring these simple times. McDonalds is convenient because I can stay here for as long as I like and I can recharge my laptop. Although some people might say that going to a McDonalds in Japan means that you're not really experiencing Japanese culture, I beg to differ. McDonalds restaurants are everywhere in Japan, and although the food is the same in any country, the Japanese McDonalds-culture is unique to this country, and probably cannot be found anywhere else. Sleeping salarymen at 2AM, chattering high school girls and middle school girls, homeless people scrounging up the money for a 100 yen hamburger, etc. etc. - all of it overlayed with a distinct Japanese 雰囲気.

For me, part of Japanese culture is their peculiar conception of convenience. There's a lot of contradictions in how this country approaches convenience. Or perhaps it's better phrased as 'Japanese people's convenient things are different from other countries'. In many ways it's the opposite of Holland. In Japan, convenience stores (conbini) are everywhere, yet trashcans are nowhere to be found. Public toilets are easy to locate, yet you have to walk for 20 minutes to find a suitable place to sit. For that matter, comfortable places to sit are hard to find! Backrests, tables, chairs, they're hard to come by once you venture into the countryside. A stay in a youth hostel generally involves a tatami room with a small low table and a pillow to sit on. No comfortable backrest for you! I had finally gotten used to sitting without a backrest when I rode in a friend's car, and the soft comfortable seat surprised me, and unexpectedly made my back hurt even more. Once you get used to a particular way of living it can be painful to change sometimes.

From my perspective, in Japan, some things that should be convenient are not, while other things that I wouldn't expect had a convenient solution, are in fact very convenient. Banks have annoyed me in particular. For example, even in a big city like Kagoshima the ATMs close on weekends. I think that's a huge WTF for any civilized country. In the Tokyo area you can use ATMs in the weekends but they will charge you more to withdraw cash. It's almost as if the system has just been thought up and hasn't been tested much, because this kind of 'bugs' are easily discovered when the system is put into production. Unfortunately it's been like this for years and doesn't like it'll change any time soon. Banks throw you another curve ball by closing their offices on weekends, meaning if you have to do anything bank-related you have to sacrifice working hours for it. You can imagine my surprise when I went to the bank last week to change my address, and was able to do it all by myself from an electronic terminal, without human intervention. Common actions are inconvenient, yet something as uncommon as an address change is extremely easy. They repeatedly betray your expectations. One instance where expectations are not betrayed is international money transfers: a fairly rare action, which is fairly cumbersome to do. As expected.

Posted in Japan

An unfortunate surprise

Am I never free of Atsugi?!? It seems that the longer I stay here, the more things I need to do. Can't wait to be back on my bicycle again..

I finally organized my heavy luggage, threw away a lot of old clothes and went to the post office to send my stuff back to Holland. Note for people in similar situations: if you send by SAL it takes 2-3 weeks (but probably less) and is fairly cheap, but EMS takes one week and is more expensive. Here's the nag: SAL only accepts luggage up two 20kg, whereas EMS accepts up to 30kg for one piece of luggage. If you have a suitcase heavier than 20kg you're stuck with the expensive option. Fortunately my suitcase was exactly 21kg, and after removing a heavy coat I was able to send it by SAL for 10.000 yen less. That's nice savings!

Feeling happy about saving some money I skipped and whistled towards the city hall to ask if there was anything else to finish up. As usual, I have done no research on this topic whatsoever, and I kind of forgot to let the city know that I hadn't been living in Atsugi for the past two months. I explained my situation to a friendly person there, who told me there was nothing for me to do, just at the moment of leaving the country to mention at the immigration at the airport that I won't be coming back. Fairly easy, right? Then the nice friendly person told me to go to the second floor and ask at the tax counter if there was anything else for me to finalize. The tax counter was a very friendly pretty lady, who kindly presented me with a smile and a request to pay two hundred fifty thousand yen.

Uh, what? Did I miss something here? Here I thought I was being nice and all, formally finalizing my stay in Japan by deregistering myself from the city hall, and they present me with a bill of 250.000 yen (~2000 euro btw)? That's not very nice. When I asked about the how and why, the nice happy lady turned evil and started spouting many long and complicated Japanese words that I didn't at all understand. Finally I managed to get the gist of it, and it seems that usually the company pays the tax, but since I quit my job now I have to pay it myself. And not just the tax since I quit my job, all the tax from this year and last year as well. Argh. Feeling doubtful about paying such a large amount of money I asked an acquaintance to confirm it, but haven't received a reply yet. I'm going to gather a bit more information before settling this..

Right now I'm wishing that my Japanese skill was higher. Then I would be able to read Japanese websites much faster, and I would be able to read the pamphlets that I got from the city hall about taxes. With my current skill I'm just lacking information and running into surprises like this is not helping my morale a lot. I'm guessing it'll take at least 2 more years before I'm able to read and understand tax-related legalese in kanji, though...

Posted in Japan , Spirit of Japan

Super Camping Car!

I was feeling bored in my hotel room when I suddenly got a call from my buddy Fumi, who I traveled with in Kyushu and Yakushima. He was back in Kanagawa prefecture already, together with Hou, the Taiwanese guy who was part of our hiking troupe at Yakushima. A big surprise, because both of them were planning to stay at Yakushima for a long time, yet they're back already. So what prompted this occasion? I went to meet them to find out.

And found out I did! It seems that Fumi and Hou traveled back to Kanagawa with Hou's home-made camping car (as it called in Japanese-ified English). What took me six weeks they did in two days, and with a lot more comfort. As you can see from the picture, Hou's camping car is basically a truck with a home/cabin on top. The cabin itself can be forklifted off and put somewhere else, so Hou can still use the truck to do his job while parking his mobile home somewhere nearby his current working place. His prototype has some rough edges, but the idea is extremely practical.

Hou and his brainchild
The kitchen area

Since it's basically a truck, the inside is huge! Nothing is missing here: there's gas, water, electricity (several huge batteries powered by the truck's engine, with an option of adding solar panels on the roof), a shower, a kitchen area, a table etc. etc. It resembles a house more than a camper van. There's room underneath for four(!) foldable bicycles. Being used to low ceilings in Japan, I was very pleased to know that I could easily stand inside the camper without hitting my head.

Hou took us out for a spin in his camping car, and we went to the riverside to relax for a bit. Cold beer in the fridge, a table and some chairs, and plenty of snacks. Certainly quite different from traveling by bicycle! It was here that Hou revealed his plan: he plans to start producing and selling these camping cars in Japan. He's put a lot of thought into it, and after listening to his explanation it certainly seems like a good idea. Hou's got it all thought out, so if you happen to live in Japan and are interested in one of these babies, drop a comment here and I will let him know :D

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Japan

Posted in Japan , Photography

A once in a lifetime encounter

Continuing from the last post, I was bored and hungry during lunch time, so I went down the hill a bit and found a cable car station. The cable car went all the way up the mountain and promised a restaurant at the top. Despite the horrible weather, and despite the warnings of the ticket lady that I would not be able to see anything from the top because of the rain, I paid 1200 yen and went up the mountain. I then proceeded to take the space elevator and did a space walk.

Space elevator

Well, no. But I did reach the top of the mountain which was about 660 meters high, and had a nice lunch. I played Sokoban on my digital camera for a while hoping for the weather to clear up, but that didn't happen. When I went down again to catch the cable car back to the surface a guy told me I had to wait for 10 minutes for the cable car to arrive, and that I could wait inside with him. We talked a bit, and I told him that I wanted to go the city center to get some food for tonight. The guy, Kojima-san, told me he would finish working soon and could pick me up at the youth hostel in an hour or so, since he was going to the city center anyway. Great!

Later Kojima-san picked me up at the youth hostel and he kidnapped me. He didn't take me to the city center, but he brought me to his house instead, where his wife had a very surprised look on her face when we walked in. We talked a bit, and Kojima-san made a reservation for dinner in one of his favorite restaurants in the city center, and arranged for some of his friends to join us. Before that he took me to a standing bar where we ate yakitori and drank a bit. I realized that not drinking for four weeks affected my alcohol tolerance. I'm getting drunk a lot quicker than before...

The dinner was absolutely amazing. We ate squid, but not just regular squid sashimi (raw squid), this thing was still moving! It was on a place right in front of me and it was still moving! When I touched it with my chopsticks its tentacles would move around and freak the hell out of me. WTF. We ate squid sashimi from the top of the live squid, and after finishing the sashimi ordered the chef to take the live squid back and cook it for us. Wow. I'm normally not that fond of squid, but this one was delicious.

THIS THING MOVES

Continuing to drink during the dinner I was fairly loose in the evening, and during the taxi ride back to the youth hostel I realized when we arrived that Kojima-san had already paid for everything. During the ride I had a fairly deep conversation with the taxi driver about Japanese crime rates and the difference between rich and poor in Japan.

Coming home to the youth hostel I talked a bit with Hamasaki-san, and he told me about a Japanese saying which goes "一期一会". Ichi go, ichi e. A once in a lifetime encounter. I'm having a lot of those lately.

I'm building up a lot of gratitude towards the people that have helped me during my trip. I hope that in the future I will have a chance to forward the favor to other travelers. It's a traveler's debt, which continues throughout the ages because people are treated nicely when they are travelers, so they want to treat other travelers nicely when they can. I will certainly not forget this, and I will do my best to assist fellow travelers in the future. If everybody could be nice to each other the way we are nice to travelers, then the world would be a better place.

One time, one encounter

Also, Panakuro-san, if you're reading this, please contact me by e-mail, because the e-mail address you gave me didn't work. Thanks!

Posted in Japan , Spirit of Japan | Tagged

Found something

No pain no gain
Yesterday I was being very kindly hosted by a friend who worked with me at Asahi Kasei for a year. He and his girlfriend offered me a place to stay for the night in Sasayama, and they immediately made me feel at home. So much at home in fact, that while I was relaxing and playing games with Mathieu I almost forgot about my trip o_0. It was great to have a content-filled  conversation in English for a change, and Mathieu's lifestyle showed a little preview of what could happen if I choose to stay in Japan. Despite, or perhaps because of the homely situation, I chose to cycle on to Himeji today. It's as if I've suddenly been reminded of why I'm doing this trip, and I don't want to lose my momentum.
Leaving Sasayama I continued to follow route 372 and was not disappointed. The beautiful landscape continued on and on for another 20-30 kilometers. The weather was great, the uphills tough, and the downhills rewarding. I put on my favorite music, struggled hard on every uphill and then found what I was looking for on the following downhill. On each uphill pass the scenery changes and the roadsides change to mountain rock or dense forest. The temperature cools down in the small passes, which is great because I'm sweating a lot on the uphills, which were a lot tougher today than yesterday. After completing the uphill there's sometimes a tunnel on top, which is freezing cold to cycle through. Then the mountain road starts to go down rapidly, and the mountain walls disappear, the road becomes wider, and suddenly I'm cycling down a hill with 40kph and the scenery opens up and reveals some rice fields hidden between the mountains, and a small village. There's no traffic, almost no people, the road decline is perfect so I can maintain 30-40 kph all the way through the valley, the perfect speed to enjoy the scenery. And then I reach the end of the valley and the next uphill begins.
That's what I found. The joy of cycling downhill on a wide open road at a nice speed with a beautiful scenery. That's what I was looking for when I started this trip, and that's what I remember from previous trips. It's not just the beautiful scenery, the uphill suffering is as much part of this experience as the downhill thrill. You can't have one without the other, or else it just wouldn't be the same. It's the ultimate reward for a tough physical challenge. On my first cycling trip to Kyushu I experienced this feeling while cycling along the coast of Shimashima island and Nagashima island. On the second trip I found this on route 26 and route 147 on the east coast of Shikoku. Now I can add route 372 wast of Kyoto to that list. It's been a long time since I felt this happy.
Conbini lunch is delicious and saves time

After crossing a bunch of hills the road turned towards the south, and as I got closer to Himeji the road changed into a countryside road similar to the ones in Kanagawa, sometimes passing through towns, sometimes cycling between ricefields, but the feeling of being surrounded by mountains was gone. The wind had picked up too and I was having a medium-hard time trying to keep my speed up. This turned out to be no problem, as I overestimated the distance to Himeji, and I arrived at Himeji with plenty of time to find a hotel and to take some photos of the castle before sunset.

The famous castle

Actually, finding a hotel took me quite long. I found a very cheap hostel (2100 yen for one night) on Google, and had to jump through some strange hoops to find the address. I took a photo of the google map on my compact camera and went off trying to find it, ending up in a residential area that was impossible to navigate. I had to ask directions three times and got sent to three different directions. I finally found the place by myself, but no hotel in sight. Considering how difficult it was to find online I guess it either no longer exists or never existed.
I decided to cycle to the station instead and find a business hotel. Big problem: it's golden week right now and a lot of hotels were either fully booked or they decided to kindly raise the price. One crappy (shitty, actually) hotel told me a one-night stay was 7500 yen. When I asked why it was so expensive they just told me "it's golden week". Running out of options, I got lazy and walked into a YMCA building that happened to show up in front of me, and I asked if they knew any cheap place to stay. Yeah, maybe a weird thing to do, but it paid off :D the YMCA guy showed me the way to a capsule hotel, something typically Japanese that I never had a chance to try. Until now.

Human storage facility
Inside one of the breeding chambers

Capsule hotels are weird. Weird beyond just the idea of sleeping in a tiny cabin and paying money for it. It's a very manly world here in the capsule hotel. I'm on the fifth floor in the common area right now, and on the fourth floor is a public bath. The common area has one huge TV showing manly things like baseball, or you can pay more if you want to see a soft-porn movie. Note that this is the common room and all the guests of the hotel can freely sit here. There is no non-smoking section, so I have to tolerate an annoying smoking guy who is sitting behind me. He can look at my screen, I wonder if he can read English.

Even the lockers are tiny

The sauna/public bath thingie is even weirder. I thought I understood Japanese bathing etiquette pretty well after going to onsen for four years, but this is slightly different. First, you get a locker to put your stuff in, but the locker area is right next to the entrance. If I took off all my clothes there I would have to walk to the bath area naked and anyone entering the sauna could see me. There were no Japanese people around to mimic, so I had to figure out what to do. I first took a look at the bath area while clothes, and saw more naked Japanese people, and a bunch of people in the sauna all wearing the same underwear. Another weird point, because usually the sauna is shared with the public bath, and everyone's usually naked. I went back to the locker area and found a stack of underwear ready to use for anyone. That idea didn't appeal to me, so I kept my own. I was about to undress and walk to the bath area when a young lady worker suddenly walked by. I've been to many onsens in four years of Japan but I've never seen a young lady in the male bath area (although there were sometimes old ladies doing the cleaning). This confused me even more. Finally a Japanese guy came in and I followed him in, finally able to take a bath. This place is very weird to me, and has a different etiquette from Japanese onsen baths.
Going back to the topic of cycling, tomorrow I'm going to head towards Okayama, the next big city on the way to Hiroshima. I'm planning to take a ziggy zaggy route that will hopefully be more fun to take than the big roads. Unfortunately Okayama is about 120km's from here, and while I could do that in a day, I'd be very tired and stressed out to make it in time. I've been looking for hotels or hostels about 80-90 km's from here but couldn't find anything cheap. The good thing is: the weather's been getting better recently! No rain, temperatures rising. I think I can camp tomorrow and the day after tomorrow without any trouble.

Posted in Japan , Spirit of Japan , Uncategorized | Tagged , ,

Random Japan-related anecdotes

A stupid conversation today illustrates the many uses of the word 'hai'. This happened at the McDonalds (yes, I go there too much :S).

Cashier: will you be eating here? Me: hai (yes) Cashier: hai (I understand). What would you like to order? Me: I'd like a large coca cola zero please. Cashier: hai (I understand). that'll be 240 yen. Me: hai (hands over money) Cashier: hai (I accept your money) Cashier: hai (and I return your change) Me: hai (I accept the change and the receipt)

I hope this illustrates the silliness of Japanese. One word does everything. You can also the phrase 'hai?' meaning "I don't understand what you're saying". It all depends on the tone.

Speaking of silly Japanese, it's been bothering me for a while now, but Japanese are completely lab-rat-trained to stop in front of a railroad crossing. Always, no exception. Even if you can see perfectly that there is not a train in sight within 10 kilometers, a Japanese person will still stop in front of the railroad crossing, look both ways, and then slowly proceed to cross. Now imagine a hundred cars doing that and the kind of traffic jam this  causes. I saw two of those traffic jams today.

Oh, and this story reminds me of another silly Japanese thing: a long while back when I took a trip by train to Hokkaido I booked a hotel in the middle of nowhere and was picked up my the owner by car, who drove me to the hotel. In the middle of nowhere there were traffic lights, signaling red. We had a perfect view of the road to cross and there was not a car in sight as far as the eye could see. The hotel owner waited in his car for at least 5 minutes, then said 'chotto matte kudasai', please wait, jumped out of his car, ran to the sidewalk and pushed the button that pedestrians need to push to cross, then ran back to his car and finally crossed when the light turned green. Japan is probably the only country where this would happen.

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Starving, hysterical, naked

Today I went out for 'hanami' (花見 - flower watching) with a bunch of friends. Unlike the name suggests it has very little to do with watching flowers, as sitting under the sakura trees is just an excuse to drink from dawn till dusk. And such we did, although we did not sit under sakura trees but went to the (in)famous barbecue place at the riverside instead. The weather was near perfect today, and you can see the 'near' part of that sentence in the photo above. It's a bit cloudy and it gets cold at night, but the temperature is rising. Unfortunately the good weather never lasts for more than a day and tomorrow it's expected to rain again...

I've said my last goodbyes today and I'm almost ready to go. Now all that remains is one day of hard work to get my room empty and clean, and I have some small leftover luggage to take care of before I go. I feel very sad about not seeing my friends again for a long time, but I've been delaying my departure for long enough. Stop dawdling and just leave already!

'Starving, hysterical, naked' is a text I saw on a Japanese guy's T-shirt once. I tried to take a picture of it, but the guy walked away too quickly so I wrote the words down in my cell phone instead. This happened about a year ago, and what started as an idea for a funny picture has turned into a motivational statement for me. Whenever I feel bad I say to myself: "Hey, at least I'm not starving, hysterical and naked". Because that would suck.

Last year around this time I was standing on the edge of a cliff in Zambia, Africa. My head was facing away from the cliff, and I was slowly backing up towards the edge, unable to see any danger, as everything scary was positioned behind my point of view. After several excruciating seconds of backing up, not falling, backing up more, still not falling, I was finally at the absolute edge. One more step and I would fall. I don't remember this exact moment very well, but I think I may have forgotten to take a deep breath at that point. Instead, I just leaned over backwards and let gravity take me. I unwillingly closed my eyes at the very first instant, and I opened them again a split-second later after my fall commenced. I remember looking up into the sky, seeing the top of the mountain rapidly falling away from me. There was almost no sensation of wind, pain or anything else for that matter. I have never felt more at peace in my whole life than in those few seconds. It's as if time stood still during those few seconds, and I was able to take in every little detail of everything around me. In transit, as I went faster and faster, my peaceful mood rapidly turned into anxiety. I couldn't see the ground because I was looking upward, but I knew that I was coming closer and closer to possible death, and I was wondering when the swing would kick in and save me. And then finally (and fortunately)  it did, and I was back in the land of the living.

So what does this have to do with my current situation, you may ask? I'm not quite sure myself actually, but I've been remembering those 3 seconds of free fall a lot recently. Maybe I'm looking for the next thrill - the next experience that I will never forget. Or maybe it's my subconscious warning me that I'm about to throw myself off a cliff. Who knows. I've already taken the plunge, all that's left for me now is to enjoy the free fall.

Posted in Japan , Spirit of Japan , Thoughts | Tagged , ,

What to do with two bags of money?

"Moneybags"

Japanese banks suck for any number of reasons. I'll list the ones that frustrated me here:

  • They're not open on weekends. This is retarded.
  • On weekdays they close early in the afternoon.
  • You can deposit money from the ATM, but you have to insert each coin individually.
  • The counter that handles bulk deposits is only open in the morning.
  • This counter requires that you bring your bank book, just your cash card is not enough.
How can it be that in Japan all the small things are so convenient, but all the large institutions suck donkeyballs?

So, I went to the bank today (in the afternoon, without my bank book), and they couldn't help me deposit this massive amount of money into my bank account. I will probably have another chance to make a deposit before I leave, but this whole 'inconvenient bank' thing has left me thinking that there must be a more fun way to get rid of my money.

The two moneybags pictured above only hold 1 yen and 5 yen coins. I estimate that the total value of all coins is not above 1000 yen (~10$). While I could simply deposit this into my bank account, I am also open to suggestions as to what to do with the money. I don't want to bring it with me because it's heavy, so I want to get rid of it before I leave. I thought about 'accidentally' dropping it in the middle of Hon Atsugi station, or giving it to a homeless guy. If you have any suggestion please let me know :)

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Sakura in Yokohama

As mentioned in the previous post, I went to Yokohama today. The weather was perfect and the sakura beautiful. Here are some huge photos.

On the way to minato mirai
Excellent day for a stroll
Landmark tower
Landmark tower. AGAIN

I also came across this fascinating way of youth transportation:

Baby bag

Check Picasa for more sakura photos :)

(Note: this post took over 1 hour to write because it takes 3 seconds for each photo to load on my netbook. 50D resolution is not very compatible with a slow-by-default netbook..)

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